Monday, June 27, 2011

Luv A Duck

The star of the show. More fantastic photos here.
Best Peking duck in Bangkok? In our opinion, head straight to Great Shanghai for a magnificent Peking duck dining experience. 

It's our 'go-to' eatery for family get-togethers and celebrations and Great Shanghai rarely disappoints - my wife and her family have been regulars for 30+ years.

The main drawcard is the roasted to perfection Peking duck and its aromatic, golden brown, crispy skin.

Put a slice of duck skin in a light, but slightly chewy pancake, combine with spring onion, cucumber and hoi sin sauce and bite - taste buds will rejoice and knees are likely to buckle. 

Prawn toast - a favoured starter.
In addition to the skin, the duck meat is minced and stir fried with diced green beans and served in a lettuce cup. The bones are also used in a peppery, sour soup with bitter melon and pickled vegetables. 

To complete the gourmet experience, our other 'standard issue' orders include super high heat stir fried prawns, Szechuan glass noodles, prawn toast, steamed chicken, sweet and sour fish (one of the best in the city), and stir fried beef.

Given its prime Sukhumvit location, near the corner of Soi 24, Great Shanghai is busy most nights attracting many regulars like us, Japanese families in the neighbourhood and tourists.

Like Silom Patakan, Great Shanghai is a Bangkok dining institution and little has changed in terms of decor and food over the years. It's highly recommended if you are a fan of simple, but superbly cooked chinese cuisine - food and dishes that won't give you an MSG hangover the day after.  

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

Fire In Babylon

The four horsemen - Roberts, Holding, Croft and Garner.
I don't like cricket.. I love it ... but I've lost touch with the modern game because in SE Asia, the game is as popular as bland tasting food.

As I tell many non-cricket fans - Americans basically - cricket is the ultimate test of mind, body and spirit. That's why this documentary on the West Indian cricket team (1978-90) - one of the greatest, meanest, hardest, skillful and successful outfits in the history of the game - was a high priority watch for me.

It doesn't disappoint. Any film featuring interviews and footage of legends such as Viv Richards, Michael Holding, Andy Roberts, Gordon Greenidge, Desmond Haynes, Joel Garner, Colin Croft, Clive Lloyd etc has a lot going for it. Throw in the wit and wisdom of Bunny Wailer, as well as great news clips from the 70s and 80s, and it's sure fire winner for cricket tragics.

As an avid rugby fan it was also interesting to note the similarities - re the struggle for acceptance and bigger pay cheques, faced by the West Indian cricketers back then - and polynesian rugby players and teams in relatively recent times.

My only beef was the lack of comment from notable opponents like Dennis Lillee, Jeff Thomson, Greg and Trevor Chappell and Tony Grieg. I wanted to know what they feared/hated/respected  most about facing the Windies.

If you are watching at home get in a few cans of ice cold Red Stripe and crank up the bass because the reggae flavoured soundtrack is superb.

Fire In Babylon trailer

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Red Pinn

Baked green lipped mussels
Like Royal India - one of my favourite Indian eateries in Bangkok - Red Pinn is hard to find, but richly rewards those who make the effort to visit and dine.

Don't be deceived by its low-key East European tavern styled decor, if well-cooked, presented, seasoned and delicious 'inter' (international) cuisine is your thing, Red Pinn is the real deal. If there is a better value for money restaurant of this kind in the capital, please let me know where it is.

Last night, my extended family and I, devoured the following - chicken stroganoff pasta, cheese sticks, pumpkin and camembert salad, sweet potato crisps, latvian dumplings, baked mussels topped with a tomato salsa, bangers and mash, tuna bruschetta, quesadillas, scotch eggs, icecream, four beers, three lime sodas and two bottles of water.

Total bill = 2,100 baht (US$ 68). We're still digesting the magnificent food.

Lamb shank redemption.
There are many, many more dishes on the menu and we can't wait to go back to sample the others. The 'Full Monty' breakfast looks awesome and a possible challenge for super eater, Adam Richman from the Man v Food TV show.

Big thanks to another Adam (our Bangkok based pal - holla Adam ha ha) for this recommendation.

And more thanks for the great service provided by the Red Pinn owners and wait staff who were very hospitable hosts.

Red Pinn web site

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Nest Bar

Click here for more photos & more information.
Friday night and the lights are low at Nest Bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11. But not too low ... which is a good thing ... because Nest is one of the best people watching bars in Bangkok.

This funky and chic 'resort in the sky' themed watering hole is an "in-between"bar - in-between in that it's neither a pub, nor a club, but a hybrid venue attracting punters of all varieties.

Last Friday we shared the bar with tourists from all corners of the world, nervous first-time bar goers, a couple of guys who looked like members of Fleet Foxes, over and under dressed fashionistas, hansum men with their pretty playthings and more.

Our fave patrons included a wild young lady - sporting a wilder haircut - who quaffed red wine from the bottle. To quote Rick James, she was "a very kinky girl, the kind you don't take home to mama." We were also impressed by the man who was accompanied by three stunning women - he wore a permanent grin, and in footballer parlance, was over the moon, sick as a parrot and happy as Larry.

For a window to "Friday night Bangkok" rock up to Nest at 10 pm, find an empty nest like day bed, order a drink, recline and enjoy the view.

Nest Bar
Le Fenix Hotel (opposite Q Bar)
33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11

Sunday, June 12, 2011

Silom Patakan

The Silom Patakan pork chop. 
After a recent mid-morning climb up to the Golden Mount at Wat Saket, we decided to refuel at the famous Silom Patakan (SP) restaurant on Silom Soi 15.

Opened in 1945 SP is one of Bangkok's first "east meets west," or fusion-styled eateries, and a favourite for my wife and her family. So it was great to introduce their delicious offerings, that have stood the test of time, to our daughter last week.

Everyone orders the succulent bread crumbed pork chop dish - it should be declared a national treasure.

The sweet and spicy chicken curry.
Other popular orders include steak salad made memorable by its tangy vinaigrette, a sweet and spicy chicken curry and - in my opinion - the best khao pad boo (crab fried rice) in town. The Silom version is light, moist, flavoursome and not at all oily - the decades old wok hei continues to work its magic.

If these dishes don't take your fancy there's plenty to choose from including thai, thai-lish and thai-chinese combinations aplenty. Their aromatic, super soft, white bread is another major attraction and many diners leave with a loaf or two as well as a few jars of their sweet and sinful Kaya (a bright green pandan) spread.

Old school dining.
Besides the awesome food come to enjoy Silom's old-style design and atmosphere (marble tables, spacious canteen styled dining area, high ceilings, overhead fans, wooden chairs, Worcestershire Sauce bottles on the tables, granite and cast iron decor) that's becoming harder to find in the capital. If you want to keep it really old school, they even have an abacus on hand to total up your bill.

Click here for more great photos

Address: 793 Silom Soi 15 (one soi up from the Hindu temple), Silom Road, Bangrak
Phone: 02 236 4442

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Cedar Rapids


This low key comedy delivers high quality chuckles (more than six which is a good rate) thanks to a tight, witty and topical script and terrific performances from lead actors Ed Helms, John C. Reilly, Anne Heche, Isiah Whitlock Jr and Stephen Root.

The film perfectly nails the good (the chance to stay in a fancy'ish hotel and see old friends); the bad (having to feign interest in presentations that are massaged to please the boss) and the downright ugly (spending 2.5 days with a few folks you'd usually cross the road to avoid) of corporate conferences and offsite gatherings.

For fans of The Wire (the greatest TV series of all time), Cedar Rapids is also worth viewing for two fantastic Wire-themed gags delivered by Isiah Whitlock Jr - better known as the show's creepiest and slimiest character - the super shady Senator Clay "Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeiiittttttttt" Davis.

Monday, June 6, 2011

Surviving (and Enjoying) Bangkok 2

Sartorial offender - click here for more horrors. 
Our first Surviving (and Enjoying) Bangkok list of travel tips was well read and received - here's part two for your enjoyment and edification.

1) Dress for success. Unless you want to be hassled by tuk tuk drivers and pushy street vendors across the capital avoid wearing any of the following - singlets (especially singlets with local beer logos), bandanas, floral shirts with matching floral shorts, hiking pants/boots, 3/4 pants, beachwear, camouflage pants, crocs, sandals and socks, his & hers matching outfits, football shirts (unless Man U or Liverpool), sarongs, flip flops and t-shirts/caps that advertise your country of origin.

2) And when not in use try to keep the cameras, video cameras, smart phones and fanny packs out of sight.

3) If you are here for business never schedule a meeting between 11.30 am - 1pm. Bangkok people are easygoing about many things but nothing comes between them and their lunch break - it's the same in Singapore.

4) Cold beers should only be enjoyed in bars or restaurants. Slugging a can or bottle of beer whilst walking through malls, markets, on the street and train stations is not a good look.

5) One of the fastest, safest and cheapest (3 baht) ways to navigate Thonglor Road is by the little red bus that zooms up and down the busy road. Hail it on the street and when you want to disembark - just pull the buzzer chain.

If you must drink in public - stick to Khao San Road.
6) In pubs and clubs, no need to order drinks from the bar - find a seat or table and wait for the bar staff to take your order and to serve the drinks.

7) If you're travelling on the Sky Train and miss the next station announcement in English don't panic - the Thai announcement will follow. Listen for "satani"(station in Thai) then the name of the station e.g. National Stadium Station is Satani National Stadium.

8) A rough guide to the iconic MBK mall - Floors 1-3 - mostly clothing shops; floor 4 - smart phones, software, iPads, cameras and other electronics; floor 5 - furniture; floor 6 - more clothing and the famous MBK food court.

9) If you must visit the Patpong Night Market be warned - after 10 pm many circling vulture "metre-off" cab drivers will ask for a flat fee of 100 baht.

10) Street side fruit vendors will often drop a small sachet, of what looks like orange crystals, in the fruit bag. Relax, it's not an attempted drugs sting - the sachet contains a zesty dipping condiment made from salt, sugar and chillies.

Watch your step.
11) Please leave a tip after dining. While most high end eateries will include a 10% service charge it's good form to leave a tip of between 20-50 baht after dining at street stalls or cheaper restaurants.

12) If you want to order a vegetarian meal ask for an "ahan jae" meal.

13) So it's 2pm and you want to buy a 6-pack of beer from the supermarket or 7 (local slang for 7-11) to enjoy in the afternoon. Tough luck - booze can only be purchased from 11 am - 2 pm and from 5 pm - 10 pm. However, it is ok to purchase a slab of beer (24 cans/bottles) at anytime - why the exception for a 24-pack? I have no idea.

14) How to call for the bill at a restaurant? Kep Tang khrup/kha (the polite way) or check bin khrup/kha.

15) Watch your step - really. If you don't take care, BKK's sidewalks can become boulevards of broken legs and ankles - watch out for holes; broken and uneven pavements; dog droppings; wet concrete and broken glass. In addition keep an eye out for wandering baby elephants (not so common these days), street vendors and massage salesmen.

If you have other ideas/suggestions to add please send it to us.


Saturday, June 4, 2011

Chiang Mai Now!

The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) is one of the coolest (architectural, artistic and air con wise) places in the capital and worthy of frequent visits.

Now is as good a time as any because the current Chiang Mai Now! exhibition is terrific. Full of fresh, original, quirky, irreverent and cheeky works - including paintings, sculptures, photographs installations and more - the exhibition reinforces Chiang Mai's reputation as a regional creative hothouse.

I really liked the ice cream stand display by the DOCUMENTARY team as well as the installation from the Chiang Mai Sunday Cycling Club. Another fave was the John and Yoko inspired "Art Is Over" photograph.

The massive graffiti wall on the circular walkway to the 9th floor is also eye-catching and a backdrop favourite with many snap happy visitors.

  • More information about Chiang Mai Now! - the exhibition runs until June 19.
  • A link to Hern-Art one of my favourite artists in Chiang Mai.
  • If you've never been there - BACC is the impressive big white building opposite MBK.







Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Bunfight At The Chockchai Corral!

Chockchai beef burger with everything.
A road trip to Khao Yai is not complete without a stop at the Farm Chockchai theme park (look out for the Big Cow) to devour a delicious burger or two at their famous burger stand.

Sure, it's a bit corny with employees dressed in cowboy and cowgirl outfits but who cares when the burgers are this good. The super fresh Chockchai meat patties are cooked to perfection - for my taste buds anyway - and are high quality, juicy, tender and slightly smokey.

Served in a wheat bun filled with tomatoes, lettuce and the Chockchai special sauce, it's an unbeatable combination. When the ingredients are this good, it's best to keep the order simple and for me, a pork or beef burger, served with an extra order of onions is hard to beat.

They also serve a pricy wagyu beef offering to satisfy high-end burger junkies. But pound for pound, the Chockchai beef or pork burger is one of the best value-for-money meat and bun offerings in the 150-200 baht price range.

Pork Burger with onions.
And good news for Bangkokians - there is now a Chockchai Burger stand in the Paragon Mall. It's located in the supermarket in the mall basement.

Also an honourable mention for the Dukes burger which gets a two-thumbs up rating from my pal Awi, who is a burger connoisseur.

And a dishonourable mention for the fish sandwich served at the Black Swan Pub. This 'back to basics' creation features a fried fish fillet in a fried bread roll with french fries - nothing else. Even mid-70s Elvis would have sent this heart stopper back to the kitchen.

For more information about other non Mickey D burger shops visit Bangkok Burger Blog - the author has really done the hard yards to find the best burger eats and treats in Bangkok.