Magical, Mystery Isaan Tour

Suan Hin Phua Ngam Park - where dinosaurs used to roam.

After a terrific stay in Chiang Khan, Nong Khai (NK) was the next stop on our magical, mystery Isaan tour.

On the way to NK, we stopped at Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park to hike around, and up, one of the park's magnificent limestone mountains. Dubbed the Kunming (where similar mountains are found) of Loei district, the park is a gem and the 1.5 hour guided walk through the forest and up one of the famous peaks is highly recommended.

Besides clean air, panoramic views and an up close look at a wide variety of trees, plants, flowers, caves, fossils and vines the walk also means avoiding the iPhone-toting masses who prefer the tuk tuk tour.

Sofa Gallery Hotel - a perfect spot for relaxing by the river.

Hike completed, we enjoyed a quick lunch of gai yarn (BBQ chicken), larb (spicy minced meat salad) and somtam (green papaya salad) before getting back on the road.

A quick word on motoring in the northeast - local folks pass when they feel like it. If that reads as terrifying, it is, but it also works because oncoming drivers know to slow down. If you plan to drive in the region stay extra alert and road aware.

We reached NK in the late afternoon. NK is a major border town with the Thailand-Laos Friendship bridge just 25 kilometres away. For us, it was a good place to overnight and the quiet Sofa Gallery Hotel was the perfect spot to relax and recharge - big thanks to hotel manager Khun Jack who was a terrific host.

Buffalo skin - an appetising appetiser for your next BBQ.

Next morning we walked NK's riverside promenade and shopped at the large central market. I liked the big food section and things to catch the eye included crunchy baguettes, spice packed local sausages and buffalo skin - good on the barbecue apparently - will have to try that next time.

We'd also like to visit the amazing looking Sala Keoku park in the future - it's on the to-do list.

After a quick visit to the city's main temple, we headed off to Khon Kaen (KK), one of the biggest cities in the province.

We saw in the New Year at a huge central city party enjoyed by tens of thousands. Props to the local authorities for putting on a well-organised street party. There were good vibes aplenty and few pissed up, obnoxious party goers - quite a contrast to similar events held in New Zealand (my home country) which often come to a violent, bloody and teary end.

Dinosaurs on the rampage at the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.  

Bright and beautiful suppaniga flowers in Khon Kaen.

Although we'd just celebrated the arrival of 2012, our first day of the new year was spent in the pre-historic past with a trip to the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.

About 150 kilometres from KK, the museum is renowned for its impressive and informative exhibits. However, our visit coincided with a national holiday and it was too crowded and noisy to enjoy the museum.

A bit of a downer, but our final couple of days in Buriram made up for the dinosaur disappointment.

Talk about saving the best for last.... I'm not usually big on ancient temples and ruins and I'm ashamed to say I was half asleep when my wife mentioned the 10th century Phanom Rung temple (which sits on top of 380-metre extinct volcano) and the 11th century Khmer-period Prasat Mueang Tam sanctuary.

Both sites were gobsmacking beautiful, incredible, atmospheric and amazing. I won't prattle on any more and let the photos do the talking.

Soaking up the history at Prasat Mueang.

Early morning at Phnom Rung.

Loads of room to roam.

Although we only saw a fraction of this blessed part of Thailand, we're now converts and truly, madly, deeply in love with Isaan - we'll be back soon and hopefully often. 

Supanniga Home

Supanniga New Year's welcome.

Unaccustomed as I am to staying in luxury resorts, when the rare opportunity arises, I make a wholehearted effort to enjoy every waking moment.

Not that any effort was required at the super Supanniga* Home in Khon Khaen. While it's the smallest boutique hotel to feature on the prestigious Relais & Chateaux list of global boutique lodgings, it's an absolute giant in terms of style, atmosphere, class, service and comfort.

It's also exclusive with just three large luxurious villas built on the 16-acre tree, flower and shrub laden property. So there's plenty of room, shade and privacy - there are also many tables, walking paths, benches and even a tree house in the vast garden.

Once unpacked and settled in, this Isaan Garden of Eden is pretty hard to leave. We loved strolling in the garden, reading, lazing about and overdosing on the serenity.

Our room with a garden view. 

The 'stay-in' factor is enhanced by the beautifully designed and appointed villas decked out with vintage Thai furniture and mod cons. Our villa was spacious and included a sizeable kitchen, dining room and 'back to nature' inspired outdoor bathroom.

The Villa.

If you're hungry, there are many dining options including Krua Supanniga by Khun Yai, the intimate in-house cafe as well as a host of neighbourhood eateries. Oh, and the Supanniga breakfast (the Isaan breakfast menu is recommended) is a special and memorable thing - given the positive vibe inducing environment however, even burnt toast and gruel would taste good here.

One of many green resting spots around the 16 acre property.

Though it has all the elements to deliver a par excellence guest experience, it's the human touch that makes Supanniga a superstar boutique hotel.

Breakfast for champions and minions.

From arrival until departure we received "service from the heart" and big thanks to the lovely and gracious owner, her family and staff for their hospitality, warmth and smiles.

Supanniga web site
Report from the Independent newspaper

*The hotel is named after the bright yellow flower growing in many parts of the grounds.

Farewell Supanniga, already looking forward to our next visit

Viva Riva!

If you mashed together New Jack City, Scarface, Juice, Fresh and added a dash of Mad Max, it would nearly match the sound and fury of Riva Viva!

As a lifelong fan of blaxploitation and gangsta (as in Boyz In The Hood) flavoured movies, I was looking forward to this 'straight out of Kinshasa' film about hustlers, pimps and thieves and it delivered in spades.

Sure, the Viva Riva! plot is nonsense but the story is told in such a raw, unflinching and 'cranked up to 11' style, a wild and entertaining ride is guaranteed.

The film is centered around Viva, a charming, charismatic gangster, who steals a truck load of gasoline from Angolan crooks to sell in gas-deprived Kinshasa for fistfuls of cash. Trouble is, Cesar, the Angolan crime boss wants his petrol back, while local kingpin, Azor wants a piece of the action. Throw in Azor's stunningly beautiful girlfriend, Nora, a morally conflicted priest, a streetwise kid and a lesbian military officer and you have a crackerjack of a movie.

Word of warning, some of the violent scenes are hardcore, in some places, laughably over the top, but they just add to the film's visceral thrills and spills.  

A Perfect Day in Chiang Khan

Junior and me besides one of my favourite cars.

After years of talk but no action (I'm a world-class time waster) we recently made a long awaited visit to Isaan province (northeast Thailand).

Ok, we only covered about 40% of this vast province, but we'll be back - Isaan rocks.

What's not to like? Incredible scenery, clean air, sandstone mountains and caves, kick-ass cuisine, many accommodation options, pickup trucks aplenty, a unique culture, sugar cane, slightly cooler climes, super friendly people and sod all backpackers and tour group tourists.

Am I raving? You bet. 

Offering food to monks - a great way to start the day.

First stop was Chiang Khan (CK) on the Mekong River. CK is touted as a 'next big thing' destination and while growth is inevitable, it'd be a shame to see CK overrun with tourists.

Right now, CK offers a winning combination of old village charm with well-preserved, Laos-styled wooden shophouses, and incredible scenery, thanks to the Mekong and the nearby Phu Ruea National Park. Cycling is also the transport option of choice for many.

Our day began at 6.00 am to offer food to the local monks. This was followed by a delicious jok (rice porridge) and patongkoh (fried bread) at the Soi 9 corner breakfast shop. 

Fed and watered, we caught a ride to the Phu Tok summit where we stared (with open mouths) at the stunning foggy morning mountain vista.

Back down to earth we drove to the river to book a late afternoon boat cruise. The view of the sandstone mountains, jungle backdrop and the massive Mekong was breathtaking and well, life affirming.

Beautiful morning view from Phu Tok.

Boat ride sorted it was time for lunch at Pa Suang (PS) CK's best known somtam (green papaya salad) and gai yarn (BBQ chicken) shop. PS is a rough and ready no-frills joint where you basically sit in the cooking area and fair dinkum, the food was fantastic.

Their somtam includes many vegetables in the mix, as well as teardrop shaped noodle bits that added texture and another option - in addition to sticky rice - to soak up the sweet, salty, sour and ultra spicy dressing.

I was also delighted to see chicken feet served on the BBQ chicken plate - nothing is wasted.

Post lunch, caffeine was needed and there are plenty of cafes serving quality coffee at really affordable prices - between 35 - 40 baht for a latte or an Americano. We loved Book Cafe on Soi 9 which is a good place to sip coffee, read the internet, daydream and people watch. In addition, the owners are fun, friendly and relaxed and let us lounge on our own while they went out for a bowl of noodles.

Many guest houses & shops offer bicycles for visitors to use.

Khun Pairoj, the owner of Phu Chiang Khan guest house was another kind, friendly soul - he was also knowledgable, hospitable and helpful.

The main feature of his guest house is a big 1953 film projector as well as seats and bold coloured movie posters from the town's old cinema owned by his family.

Khun Pairoj's property, like many other other retro-themed shophouses on walking street, are honeypots for photographers and posing couples aplenty (which would get annoying during vacation high seasons).

We concluded our perfect day with a Mekong cruise that took us up close to Laos and the surrounding jungle and sandstone mountains. Back on land, we strolled down walking street visiting stores and galleries and buying snacks from food vendors.

Although it's quite a hike to CK, make the effort because it's a great alternative to Thailand's other destinations. If you can't live without malls, pubs, clubs, fast food joints and convenience stores, CK probably ain't the place for you.

However, if slow living, amazing nature, clean air and friendly folks is what floats your boat plan a trip now.

We're major fans - put it this way, if I could choose a 'Groundhog Day' location, I'd be happy to spend day after day after day after day in Chiang Khai.

Click to visit a good CK photo feature published in the Bangkok Post.

The mighty Mekong at sunset.

Pa Suang's tasty and explosive somtam salad.

The Duke's Chiang Mai

Happiness is a long table full of Duke's dishes.

With so much sublime and affordable food in Thailand some ask why I'd ever crave middle of the road western eats such as burgers, pizza, meatballs in tomato sauce and sticky ribs.

Those asking have never dined at The Duke's - a Chiang Mai (CM) institution - that gives US-influenced food a bloody good name. A meal at the Ping River located Dukes restaurant has become a tradition when we visit CM.

What's the attraction? Hugh quality  cuisine at mid-level prices and probably the best hamburger in the Kingdom. I'm a no-frills burger guy, get the basics right - like they do at The Duke's - and the rest takes care of itself and no need for messy extras such as cheese, eggs, mushrooms, onions etc. 

The Duke's beef patty is succulent, just right in terms of seasoning, and flavoursome with a slightly smoky taste. The patties are complimented by homemade buns that are light and yeasty. Other faves include the breaded fish and string fries, chargrilled steaks, meat filled sandwiches, homemade foccacia bread, crisp thin crust pizzas and tangy, tender pork spare ribs.

If getting high on the hog is not your thing, I recommend the warm spinach salad with crispy bacon bits and a zingy balsamic dressing. 

To fully embrace The Duke's experience bring friends, quite a few, because the portions are Texas-sized and there's plenty to choose from. And though you'll be in calorie overload for the next week it would be a crime to ignore the Duke's desert counter. 

I've never come across a better apple pie in Thailand and their cheesecakes and chocolate cakes are equally attractive and delicious. 

If you can't get to CM, but live in Bangkok, good news, you can grab a Duke's burger at The Duke's Express restaurant in the Emporium mall.

Duke's Bangkok web site

Perfect harmony - Steak and mash perfection.

Nice and cheesy does it ....

Apple crumble & ice cream - big enough to bring down the Titanic.

Songs Of The Year

Thank you Jhene Aiko for making R&B crazy, sexy and very, very cool again.

I'm a sucker for any Ronettes-inspired song and Lykkie backs up the wall-of-sound with a big, gutsy, and passionate vocal (in a good way, not like annoying American Idol screamers).

Vodka and tonic - a wonderful crooning performance from Mr National, Matt Beringer, beautifully complimented by Sharon Jones.

Beautiful dreamy, Duran Duran'ish sounding track (to my ears) that took me away to another place.

"What'ya gonna do when I Maa Nonu you!" Should have been NZ's official Rugby World song - finest sports song since "World In Motion."

Medici Kitchen and Bar

The united colours of Italy on a plate. 

Whatever your pre-conceived thoughts and views about Bangkok throw them out the window.

While it's not changing at the same rapido pace as major Indian and Chinese cities, Bangkok is hardly snoozing with interesting new malls, buildings and hotels opening on a regular basis.

A terrific example is the new Hotel Muse Bangkok (HMB) on Soi Langsuan. This former apartment has been nipped, tucked and facelifted into a chic, elegant central city boutique hotel. Design-wise, it tastefully blends 19th-century French architecture and style with King Rama V era furnishings and art.

I'm terrible re: interior descriptions - but this line from an article nails it pretty well.

"Think dark woods, black and silver trimmings, immense white enamel bathtubs with silver feet."

A great place for a Goodfellas-styled sit down.

As with many hotels, HMB boasts a host of eateries and bars and last week, we dined at the Medici Kitchen and Bar. A walk down the sweeping staircase takes you to a spacious and luxurious Tuscan-inspired eatery featuring brick walls, faux wine barrels, leather banquettes, two large private dining rooms and a roasting spit.

Opulent yes, but not over-the-top opulent. And just when I thought I had seen it all in Bangkok, the Medici experience was intensified with a pre-dinner opera performance from a group of young singers!

Operatic theatrics over, it was time to order and eat. The Medici menu includes a good selection of pasta, seafood, meat and tapas type dishes - not huge - but more than enough alternatives for everyone. The wine list is also generous.

Beef tenderloin with a red wine sauce.

My main was excellent - seared tuna served with a tomato salsa, rocket lettuce and a zesty dressing. My buddy's seafood kebab was impressive as was the beef tenderloin with red wine sauce wolfed down by my wife and daughter. We also enjoyed a steamed mussel and seafood platter starter.

The show-stopper however, was Medici's signature truffle ravioli that tasted as good as it looked.

All up, a memorable, if a slightly pricy (for BKK but v reasonable anywhere else in the world) dining experience and perfect for a special treat.

A word of warning - if you are allergic to Bangkok's 'hi-so' crowd, you may want to find another place.

The Medici signature dish - the truffle ravioli. It tasted as good as it looked.