Doi Inthanon

Doi Inthanon - a magical place.

We adore northern Thailand. We especially love the peaceful, easy "Chiang Mai state of mind" the city puts us in whenever we visit.

And just when you think you've seen everything Chiang Mai (CM) has to offer, a new destination appears on the radar.

Last weekend we scaled the heights of Doi Inthanon (Thailand's highest point - 2,565 metres up) on Saturday and Mon Cham, a hillside village, the next.

If you believe the journey is as important as the final destination - a good car is essential - and we were lucky to have the use of a Toyota Prius.

As long as it's safe and reliable we're not too fussy about car type etc. However, robocar (our nickname for the Prius) dragged us into the future of motoring and we loved it. Sure, it ain't the most stylish car on the road but the technology, fuel efficiency and comfort made it a compelling package and we were sad to return it to its proud owner.

Stage one of the hike - some challenging parts on the way up.

Robocar was also silent and powerful and made the ascent up Doi Inthanon with ease. But there was no need to rush because a visit to one of the four waterfalls on the way to DI's summit is a must.

Plenty of shady cover in the evergreen forest.

We enjoyed lunch at Mae Klang waterfall (about 44 kilometres from CM) which provided a spectacular scenic backdrop for our feast of gai yarn, laab, salt baked fish with herbs and som tam. Besides the amazing view, there are small bridges and paths around the waterways to enjoy - in less than two minutes the junior members of our group were running and screaming around the walkways.

True grit - one of the biggest rock formations on the wild and windy west side.

Leaving Mae Klang we drove for another 35 minutes to the summit, stopping five kilometres short (just past the spectacular Napamaythanadol Chedi) to do the three kilometre Gew Mae Plan hiking track.

How good was this track? Just after completing the loop, I was keen as mustard to do it again.

Walking down from the viewing spots along the well-maintained track. Don't forget your jacket - it gets pretty wild and windy on this ridge.

While there are a few steep parts, overall it's a fairly comfortable 2.8 kilometre walk thanks to a well organised and designed hiking track. And if it was fine for the five, six and eight year olds in our group it should also be fine for you. The first kilometre passes through dense forest areas offering lots of shade, a picturesque waterfall stop and plenty of singing birds.

My attempt at an arty, atmospheric shot.

Out of the cover, hikers enjoy a first widescreen glimpse of the surrounding hills and canyons. From there it's a short little climb to a couple of amazing (and windy and chilly) "up in the clouds" viewing platforms offering panoramic sights that will make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.

It's mostly downward from the platforms along an exposed ridge path that allows walkers to take in super views to the west and lots of flora and fauna, especially red rhododendron plants. I really enjoyed getting a close look at the massive jagged rock formation down from the viewing spot.

The ridge walk ends at a super spot to take photos of the Chedis before winding back into the evergreen forest towards the start/end point and car park.

Post-hike snacks - protein overload time

Gew Mae Plan is highly, highly recommended - especially in November - after rainy season when the forest is at its greenest and I hope to walk it then. As there's so much to see and do in the DI area it may pay to stay 2-3 days. Just note, the walk is closed between March to October.

More information
Another good link

Pranburi Dreaming

As Hua Hin (HH) morphs into Bangkok by the sea, beach goers seeking a laid back Gulf of Thailand retreat should bypass HH and drive another 30 kilometres south to Pranburi.

While its beaches are a little more on the rugged side - compared to say, Ko Kut's pristine white sand beauties - the total Pranburi experience offers loads of restorative pleasures.

Besides long stretches of deserted beaches and coastline, the nearby Khao Sam Roi Yot (KSRY) National Park is a must visit stunner. KSRY boasts a stupendous selection of natural wonders including limestone mountains, mangroves, caves, beaches and a river.

If you're longing for a walk on the wild side, there are many superb forest and mangrove hikes and loads of animals, insects and birds to be spotted.

As we found out the hard way, be prepared for all conditions - so sensible hiking shoes and attire. What we were led to believe would be an easy 25-minute stroll up to a cave full of stalactites and stalagmites turned out to be a sweaty, treacherous slog that involved crawling and clinging on to vines at stages. It was worth it though - the cave and ocean view was stunning.

Khao Sam Roi Yot park coming into view.

If hiking isn't your bag, Pranburi's long, traffic free, coastal roads make it a driver's paradise - specially if you are behind the wheel of a powerful convertible (sadly, I wasn't).

But whatever your motor, you can't go wrong with blue skies, sandy beaches, lush landscapes and a Toots and the Maytals soundtrack.

Dining wise, there are quite a few outdoor restaurants along the coast serving excellent seafood at pretty reasonable prices.

The area is famed for its dried squid, cuttlefish and prawns so if you have to buy gifts for family and friends, these would probably be well received.

Gung Che Num Pla - soak the raw prawns in the lime juice, chilli, fish sauce, and garlic dipping sauce and eat - best washed down with an ice cold beer. 

Post-sunset, things get pretty quiet in Pranburi and a trip back to Hua Hin is the best bet for nocturnal hijinks.

There is more selection in accommodation alternatives however with many mid-priced hotels and resorts catering for families and weekend visitors. I'm sure more high-end properties will surface - right now one of the standout top of the range hotels is Villa Maroc.

Is this afternoon tea worth driving 250+ kilometres for? You bet. 

We stayed at La a natu (further along from Pranburi's main drag) which was right up there with some of the best hotels we have visited and enjoyed in Thailand. Words don't do it justice - it has to be experienced - and it's highly recommended. Their complimentary afternoon tea is another wonderous thing.

La a natu - a pretty special place to escape from everything.

More Pranburi information

Magical, Mystery Isaan Tour

Suan Hin Phua Ngam Park - where dinosaurs used to roam.

After a terrific stay in Chiang Khan, Nong Khai (NK) was the next stop on our magical, mystery Isaan tour.

On the way to NK, we stopped at Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park to hike around, and up, one of the park's magnificent limestone mountains. Dubbed the Kunming (where similar mountains are found) of Loei district, the park is a gem and the 1.5 hour guided walk through the forest and up one of the famous peaks is highly recommended.

Besides clean air, panoramic views and an up close look at a wide variety of trees, plants, flowers, caves, fossils and vines the walk also means avoiding the iPhone-toting masses who prefer the tuk tuk tour.

Sofa Gallery Hotel - a perfect spot for relaxing by the river.

Hike completed, we enjoyed a quick lunch of gai yarn (BBQ chicken), larb (spicy minced meat salad) and somtam (green papaya salad) before getting back on the road.

A quick word on motoring in the northeast - local folks pass when they feel like it. If that reads as terrifying, it is, but it also works because oncoming drivers know to slow down. If you plan to drive in the region stay extra alert and road aware.

We reached NK in the late afternoon. NK is a major border town with the Thailand-Laos Friendship bridge just 25 kilometres away. For us, it was a good place to overnight and the quiet Sofa Gallery Hotel was the perfect spot to relax and recharge - big thanks to hotel manager Khun Jack who was a terrific host.

Buffalo skin - an appetising appetiser for your next BBQ.

Next morning we walked NK's riverside promenade and shopped at the large central market. I liked the big food section and things to catch the eye included crunchy baguettes, spice packed local sausages and buffalo skin - good on the barbecue apparently - will have to try that next time.

We'd also like to visit the amazing looking Sala Keoku park in the future - it's on the to-do list.

After a quick visit to the city's main temple, we headed off to Khon Kaen (KK), one of the biggest cities in the province.

We saw in the New Year at a huge central city party enjoyed by tens of thousands. Props to the local authorities for putting on a well-organised street party. There were good vibes aplenty and few pissed up, obnoxious party goers - quite a contrast to similar events held in New Zealand (my home country) which often come to a violent, bloody and teary end.

Dinosaurs on the rampage at the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.  

Bright and beautiful suppaniga flowers in Khon Kaen.

Although we'd just celebrated the arrival of 2012, our first day of the new year was spent in the pre-historic past with a trip to the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.

About 150 kilometres from KK, the museum is renowned for its impressive and informative exhibits. However, our visit coincided with a national holiday and it was too crowded and noisy to enjoy the museum.

A bit of a downer, but our final couple of days in Buriram made up for the dinosaur disappointment.

Talk about saving the best for last.... I'm not usually big on ancient temples and ruins and I'm ashamed to say I was half asleep when my wife mentioned the 10th century Phanom Rung temple (which sits on top of 380-metre extinct volcano) and the 11th century Khmer-period Prasat Mueang Tam sanctuary.

Both sites were gobsmacking beautiful, incredible, atmospheric and amazing. I won't prattle on any more and let the photos do the talking.

Soaking up the history at Prasat Mueang.

Early morning at Phnom Rung.

Loads of room to roam.

Although we only saw a fraction of this blessed part of Thailand, we're now converts and truly, madly, deeply in love with Isaan - we'll be back soon and hopefully often. 

Supanniga Home

Supanniga New Year's welcome.

Unaccustomed as I am to staying in luxury resorts, when the rare opportunity arises, I make a wholehearted effort to enjoy every waking moment.

Not that any effort was required at the super Supanniga* Home in Khon Khaen. While it's the smallest boutique hotel to feature on the prestigious Relais & Chateaux list of global boutique lodgings, it's an absolute giant in terms of style, atmosphere, class, service and comfort.

It's also exclusive with just three large luxurious villas built on the 16-acre tree, flower and shrub laden property. So there's plenty of room, shade and privacy - there are also many tables, walking paths, benches and even a tree house in the vast garden.

Once unpacked and settled in, this Isaan Garden of Eden is pretty hard to leave. We loved strolling in the garden, reading, lazing about and overdosing on the serenity.

Our room with a garden view. 

The 'stay-in' factor is enhanced by the beautifully designed and appointed villas decked out with vintage Thai furniture and mod cons. Our villa was spacious and included a sizeable kitchen, dining room and 'back to nature' inspired outdoor bathroom.

The Villa.

If you're hungry, there are many dining options including Krua Supanniga by Khun Yai, the intimate in-house cafe as well as a host of neighbourhood eateries. Oh, and the Supanniga breakfast (the Isaan breakfast menu is recommended) is a special and memorable thing - given the positive vibe inducing environment however, even burnt toast and gruel would taste good here.

One of many green resting spots around the 16 acre property.

Though it has all the elements to deliver a par excellence guest experience, it's the human touch that makes Supanniga a superstar boutique hotel.

Breakfast for champions and minions.

From arrival until departure we received "service from the heart" and big thanks to the lovely and gracious owner, her family and staff for their hospitality, warmth and smiles.

Supanniga web site
Report from the Independent newspaper

*The hotel is named after the bright yellow flower growing in many parts of the grounds.

Farewell Supanniga, already looking forward to our next visit

A Perfect Day in Chiang Khan

Junior and me besides one of my favourite cars.

After years of talk but no action (I'm a world-class time waster) we recently made a long awaited visit to Isaan province (northeast Thailand).

Ok, we only covered about 40% of this vast province, but we'll be back - Isaan rocks.

What's not to like? Incredible scenery, clean air, sandstone mountains and caves, kick-ass cuisine, many accommodation options, pickup trucks aplenty, a unique culture, sugar cane, slightly cooler climes, super friendly people and sod all backpackers and tour group tourists.

Am I raving? You bet. 

Offering food to monks - a great way to start the day.

First stop was Chiang Khan (CK) on the Mekong River. CK is touted as a 'next big thing' destination and while growth is inevitable, it'd be a shame to see CK overrun with tourists.

Right now, CK offers a winning combination of old village charm with well-preserved, Laos-styled wooden shophouses, and incredible scenery, thanks to the Mekong and the nearby Phu Ruea National Park. Cycling is also the transport option of choice for many.

Our day began at 6.00 am to offer food to the local monks. This was followed by a delicious jok (rice porridge) and patongkoh (fried bread) at the Soi 9 corner breakfast shop. 

Fed and watered, we caught a ride to the Phu Tok summit where we stared (with open mouths) at the stunning foggy morning mountain vista.

Back down to earth we drove to the river to book a late afternoon boat cruise. The view of the sandstone mountains, jungle backdrop and the massive Mekong was breathtaking and well, life affirming.

Beautiful morning view from Phu Tok.

Boat ride sorted it was time for lunch at Pa Suang (PS) CK's best known somtam (green papaya salad) and gai yarn (BBQ chicken) shop. PS is a rough and ready no-frills joint where you basically sit in the cooking area and fair dinkum, the food was fantastic.

Their somtam includes many vegetables in the mix, as well as teardrop shaped noodle bits that added texture and another option - in addition to sticky rice - to soak up the sweet, salty, sour and ultra spicy dressing.

I was also delighted to see chicken feet served on the BBQ chicken plate - nothing is wasted.

Post lunch, caffeine was needed and there are plenty of cafes serving quality coffee at really affordable prices - between 35 - 40 baht for a latte or an Americano. We loved Book Cafe on Soi 9 which is a good place to sip coffee, read the internet, daydream and people watch. In addition, the owners are fun, friendly and relaxed and let us lounge on our own while they went out for a bowl of noodles.

Many guest houses & shops offer bicycles for visitors to use.

Khun Pairoj, the owner of Phu Chiang Khan guest house was another kind, friendly soul - he was also knowledgable, hospitable and helpful.

The main feature of his guest house is a big 1953 film projector as well as seats and bold coloured movie posters from the town's old cinema owned by his family.

Khun Pairoj's property, like many other other retro-themed shophouses on walking street, are honeypots for photographers and posing couples aplenty (which would get annoying during vacation high seasons).

We concluded our perfect day with a Mekong cruise that took us up close to Laos and the surrounding jungle and sandstone mountains. Back on land, we strolled down walking street visiting stores and galleries and buying snacks from food vendors.

Although it's quite a hike to CK, make the effort because it's a great alternative to Thailand's other destinations. If you can't live without malls, pubs, clubs, fast food joints and convenience stores, CK probably ain't the place for you.

However, if slow living, amazing nature, clean air and friendly folks is what floats your boat plan a trip now.

We're major fans - put it this way, if I could choose a 'Groundhog Day' location, I'd be happy to spend day after day after day after day in Chiang Khai.

Click to visit a good CK photo feature published in the Bangkok Post.

The mighty Mekong at sunset.

Pa Suang's tasty and explosive somtam salad.

In Praise of the Bluff Oyster

Bluff Oysters - a gastronomic wonder of the world

Back in the Big Mango now after 2.5 weeks of eating, drinking and driving... not at the same time... across the eastern and central parts of New Zealand's (NZ) North Island.

Besides magnificent feasts cooked by family and friends, we visited some super eateries. In Gisborne (my home town), the Soho bar in the wharf area serves a very decent lunch, especially the $25 set that includes a starter, a delicious fish main and a glass of wine or beer. A good value feed indeed. Cafe 1874 in the Poverty Bay Club in town is a terrific spot for coffee and the Provence flavoured Matawhero Vineyard is perfect for an afternoon wine or 3.

Matawhero - one of my fave wineries in Gisborne

200 kilometres south in Napier we stayed a night at the very comfortable and well located Mission B&B in Taradale. Host, Robert Simon is a national treasure and should be engaged by Tourism NZ to run hospitality courses. He is a raconteur (in English and Cantonese), wine and music buff and a top chef. He cooks a mean and generous breakfast that sees you right for the day.

His B&B is a stone's throw from the regal Mission Estate - NZ's oldest vineyard - equally famous for its wines and annual summer concerts. The restored seminary building at the vineyard houses a fine restaurant.

As an on-the-road treat we ordered the in-season Bluff oysters. While many food bores rave on about truffles, foie gras and caviar etc.. in my opinion, the sweet, succulent 'Bluffy' lords it over these traditional posh nosh pretenders.

Raw or battered and deep fried, the Bluff oyster is food of the gods. Equally good were our John Dory and  fish and chip orders.

TSG's Salmon and green bean hummus dip 

For the best Cantonese food in Auckland, head to the jam-packed Sun World restaurant in Newmarket. Their steamed cod, stir fried string beans and olives and salt baked chicken were some of the standouts. The meal reconfirmed my view that eating Chinese or Asian offers the best value for money dining in NZ.

And a final mention about the new and impressive Tyler Street Garage (TSG) restaurant in the revamped  downtown area.

While the the TSG food and rooftop space is really good - the service was, to put it politely, variable. We copped some serious 'attitude' from the downstairs wait staff who deemed us unworthy to dine upstairs. Luckily for us, their rooftop colleagues were super helpful and friendly.

And whinge #2 - As they arrived 5 minutes before TSG's 11.30am opening time, my mum and gran were told to wait outside by staff. Come on TSG managers! Would you do the same to your respective mums and grans.. very, very poor form.

  

A Tale Of Two Markets

Back in the the motherland (New Zealand) to reunite with family and friends and enjoy NZ's many, many charms. In Auckland last weekend we visited a couple of food markets that reflect the city's diversity.

Saturday night saw us at the Pakuranga Night Market (PNM). A relatively recent introduction, PNM attracted a pretty decent crowd with most heading to the food vendors lining one side of the market. Asian cuisine was well represented with Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese (northern and southern), Indian, Japanese, Malaysian, Indonesian, Singaporean, Pinoy and Korean dishes offered. While they varied in quality, it was great to see the variety of food available enjoyed by people of all nationalities. Oddly, the the stall with the longest line was the New York hotdog stand!

PNM's biggest downside is its ground floor car park location which has as much charm and appeal as a public toilet. But credit to the organisers for providing a new night out option for South Aucklanders.

Clevedon... easy like Sunday morning.

The next morning, we got up early to drive to the Clevedon Village Farmer's Market (CVFM). While only a few kilometres from Pakuranga, CVFM was a million miles apart in terms of market goers, prices, food and produce on sale, and venue. The scenic country barn and farm setting was filled to the brim with many "Chelsea Tractor" driving "Queen Street Farmers" (rich city folks enjoying a bit of country) and their families and friends.

While PNM was all about sushi, shao lung bao, green curry, pho, chop suey, char kway teow and bugulgi, CVFM was paella, bratwurst, baklava, wild salmon, aged beef and lamb, organic vege, cornish pasties, gourmet pies, crepes, salamis, jams, preserves, chutneys, cheeses and more. High-end food at medium to premium prices. But, if you are in the neighbourhood, feeling hungry rather than hungover, and an early Sunday riser, CVFM is well worth a visit.

Links
Pakuranga Night Market
Clevedon Village Farmer's Market

Tao Hong Tai Ceramics Factory

I was put off ceramics for life after a trip to China more than 20 years ago. Every tour on that visit seemed to end up at a ceramics shop (or factory) full of stuff I had no interest in buying - hence my indifference.

Last weekend however, my attitude was adjusted thanks to a visit to the Tao Hong Tai ceramics factory in Ratchaburi district about 120 kilometres south of Bangkok.

Managed and run by a family of famous ceramicists, the factory is set in a garden filled with cool, kooky and colourful ceramic objects of all shapes and sizes. We especially liked the piglet tables and bright mini-pagodas. There were also many traditional items such as large water jars decorated with quirky features and touches.

To keep things fresh and exciting, artists from other parts of Thailand are regularly invited as in-residence artists to learn new skills and showcase their talents.

Given the quality of the objects for sale, they are very reasonably priced and if you spend more than 6,000 baht they will deliver to your home in Bangkok free of charge.

We really wanted to visit their new, and award-winning, Tao Hong Tai: d Kunst gallery down the road but ran out of time and now have an excuse for a return visit soon. But we'll have to find a pickup truck somewhere as there are plenty of great pieces that we'd like to bring back.

A visit to the factory and gallery is a great way to break up the fairly boring drive to Cha Am or Hua Hin beach. The surrounding town also has a nice laid back charm and we look forward to returning soon.

Here is a good Bangkok Post article about the new gallery and the factory.

Last Night We Were All Hippies

Compared to the "combat rock" mindset adopted by many young gig goers in the west, their Thai counterparts are on the whole, way more relaxed and mellow.*

This was certainly the case at the Summer Hippie concert held on Cha Am Beach (about 200 kilometres south of Bangkok) last night. Mind you, the combination of a beautiful night sky, a cool Gulf of Thailand sea breeze and shiny, happy Thai pop music is pretty hard to rage against.

Besides these factors it was a terrifically enjoyable night out thanks to the brilliant concert setup. Having been to more than a few gigs in my time - mostly in New Zealand and the UK - it was an interesting and a pleasant change to attend a concert where there were: 

• Plenty of high quality food and drink options at affordable prices
• Plenty of vendors on hand to ensure no long queues for food and drinks 
• Plenty of punter-friendly attractions including a foot massage section and a too-cool smoker's area 
• No fights among "overly refreshed" punters 
• No drugs (I didn't see or smell the usual party drugs but I am very out of touch on these matters)
• Gig goers of all ages 
• Really well dressed gig goers 
• Great sight lines and a well balanced sound system

What about the performers? All of the acts put on good shows playing upbeat tunes that added to the carnival atmosphere. Rule of thumb - a horn section always adds so much in an outdoor live concert setting.

Bottom Blue, who were led by a charismatic and energetic frontman, was one band that caught my eye. Their faster numbers were great combining doo wop, ska and rock - an unlikely combo sure - but like som tam salad, their all-in-the-mix approach worked well, and more importantly, got many punters up dancing.

I'll have to investigate more of their music. We missed the headline act, Modern Dog, but they apparently played to a very full house.

*It's not all peace and love. A few weeks back, a few hundred fans of the Deftones staged a mini rampage outside a Bangkok venue when the inept and incompetent concert promoter cancelled the gig at the very last minute. 

(Shopping) Mission To Burma

Never mind the Junta!

Just as Singapore has Jahor Bahru (JB) as an over-the-border cheap shopping destination, we have Tachileik (a border town in Myanmar). Unlike JB however, Tachileik is hard to reach involving a major road trip to Mae-Sae, the northern-most city in Thailand.

Colourful border towns such as JB and Tachileik have always interested me, so we were right on board when Chiang Mai-based friends recently offered to drive us there. The journey via Chiang Rai to Mae-Sae is fantastic taking in plenty of scenic spots and sleepy one-horse towns where little has changed in the last 60 years (and the better for it).

At Mae-Sae I was able to get an entry visa (sans passport) from the Thai immigration office (200 baht) and another from their Burmese counterparts for 500 baht. Once paid and stamped up, I sauntered over the Thai-Burma bridge to Tachileik.

I was immediately greeted by six enthusiastic gents peddling an appealing combo of fake viagra and cheap cigarettes. The offers were politely declined and we moved on. Further along, we saw the main attraction for tourists - a huge real life "pirate bay" with loads of stalls selling fake goods at low prices - dirty deeds done dirt cheap indeed.

Being the music and film nut that I am I made a beeline to one of the mega DVD and music shops and was blown away by the selection and prices - US$ 1 for a blue ray disc and 60 cents for a DVD or CD.  I brought the Wire box set (20 discs) for US$ 20. Yes, the discs work, and yes, quality is high. Amazing music box sets were also on sale from the Beatles to the Stones to a host of Jazz greats.

Like the Warehouse in New Zealand, there was something for everyone - branded sunglasses, jeans, watches, track suits, toys, handbags, shirts, software and more - I could have spent hours there shopping and observing.

Although it's not a must-visit destination, if you are in northern Thailand and have a free day I'd recommend a trip to Tachiliek if only to say that you have shopped at one of the most interesting, and probably politically suspect markets in the world. 

Surviving (And Enjoying) Bangkok

We’re frequently asked for travel tips and advice in Bangkok and Thailand - here are some of the most important ones.

1) Best months to visit? October to January – the cool’ish season when temperatures average between 26–32 degrees. Besides hot season (March to May), the other months are also fine.  Rainy season runs from June to November - it doesn’t rain all day just a couple of hours every day.

2) Don’t try to cross major roads - especially via a zebra crossing – cars do not stop at zebra crossings!!! Always use the over bridge or traffic lights. If there are none – wait for a local to cross and follow closely.

3) It never gets cold in Bangkok so leave woolens and thermals at home.

4) Unless the first price is right for your wallet, bargaining is highly recommended at markets. But remember, storekeepers are much smarter and experienced than you, so don’t be a wiseass or bully. Yelling will not result in a lower price. Rule of thumb – the best starting price is 30-35% below the vendor’s initial asking price.

5) Take it easy and stay hydrated. If you’re a 5th gear type of person, drop it down a couple of gears to conserve energy. The heat and humidity takes its toll on everyone.

6) Quite a few attractions offer one price for locals and a more expensive one for tourists.  This upsets some but consider this… many travellers from the west earn 2-4 times more than local people.

7) All restaurants and hawker stalls provide four condiments (sugar, chilli, vinegar and fish sauce) to add to rice and noodle dishes. You are under no obligation to use them all – just add according to personal taste.

8) Common sense, common sense and common sense - many travellers take on different personas in the Kingdom. Some think they are Valentino Rossi and rent, and ride scooters and motorbikes, sans a helmet - Thai drivers and roads can be as dangerous as the ones in your home country.

9) Some men also transform into Brad Pitt and believe themselves to be irresistible to many women – depending on which bar you are at - ‘all that glitters is not gold’ can apply as does 'caveat emptor.'

10) Tuk Tuks for short distance journeys only and always agree a price before you jump in. And say no to all offers of visits to tailors, gem shops, seafood restaurants, massage parlours and temples.

11) Small notes are big notes especially if you plan to use taxis to get about. Besides asking a cab driver to change radio station, nothing upsets them more than pulling out a 500 or 1,0000 baht note to pay for the fare. So keep a chunk of coins and 20, 50 and 100 baht notes on you at all times. This advice also applies in Singapore.

12) There’s more to Thai cuisine than pad thai, green curry, tom yum soup and banana pancakes so don’t be afraid to broaden your culinary horizons. If you see an amazing dish on another table don’t be shy to ask what it is and order.  Equally important - ‘phet’ (pet) = spicy, 'phet mak mak' = very spicy  and ‘mai phet’ = not spicy.

13) While you don’t need to return a wai to everyone - it is a nice gesture, especially to seniors.

14) Where possible, use the Sky Train, subway or water taxis to get around Bangkok. Motorbike taxis for emergencies only or super short trips.

15) Jatujak Market is an impenetrable maze for first timers. So if you see something that appeals make the purchase because it's unlikely you'll be able to find the stall again.

16) Beer and ice. Seems strange and is a no-no in many countries. In the tropics however, it makes a lot of sense where an ice cold beer can warm up pretty rapidly without an ice cube or two.

17) Thailand comes to a standstill twice a day - at 8 am and 6 pm - when the national anthem is played so be prepared to stand and pay respect wherever you are. The King's anthem is also played before all film screenings so same rules apply.

18) Sorry pedants. Thai city and suburb names translated into English can often be spelt in two or three ways - e.g. Thong Lor, Thonglo or Thonglor or Jatujak Market or Chaturchak Market. So don't panic if you think you think you have missed a station or gone to the wrong place because of spelling inconsistencies - you have to back your phonetic intuition.

Click here for part two of our Surviving (and enjoying) Bangkok tips.