Pranburi Dreaming

As Hua Hin (HH) morphs into Bangkok by the sea, beach goers seeking a laid back Gulf of Thailand retreat should bypass HH and drive another 30 kilometres south to Pranburi.

While its beaches are a little more on the rugged side - compared to say, Ko Kut's pristine white sand beauties - the total Pranburi experience offers loads of restorative pleasures.

Besides long stretches of deserted beaches and coastline, the nearby Khao Sam Roi Yot (KSRY) National Park is a must visit stunner. KSRY boasts a stupendous selection of natural wonders including limestone mountains, mangroves, caves, beaches and a river.

If you're longing for a walk on the wild side, there are many superb forest and mangrove hikes and loads of animals, insects and birds to be spotted.

As we found out the hard way, be prepared for all conditions - so sensible hiking shoes and attire. What we were led to believe would be an easy 25-minute stroll up to a cave full of stalactites and stalagmites turned out to be a sweaty, treacherous slog that involved crawling and clinging on to vines at stages. It was worth it though - the cave and ocean view was stunning.

Khao Sam Roi Yot park coming into view.

If hiking isn't your bag, Pranburi's long, traffic free, coastal roads make it a driver's paradise - specially if you are behind the wheel of a powerful convertible (sadly, I wasn't).

But whatever your motor, you can't go wrong with blue skies, sandy beaches, lush landscapes and a Toots and the Maytals soundtrack.

Dining wise, there are quite a few outdoor restaurants along the coast serving excellent seafood at pretty reasonable prices.

The area is famed for its dried squid, cuttlefish and prawns so if you have to buy gifts for family and friends, these would probably be well received.

Gung Che Num Pla - soak the raw prawns in the lime juice, chilli, fish sauce, and garlic dipping sauce and eat - best washed down with an ice cold beer. 

Post-sunset, things get pretty quiet in Pranburi and a trip back to Hua Hin is the best bet for nocturnal hijinks.

There is more selection in accommodation alternatives however with many mid-priced hotels and resorts catering for families and weekend visitors. I'm sure more high-end properties will surface - right now one of the standout top of the range hotels is Villa Maroc.

Is this afternoon tea worth driving 250+ kilometres for? You bet. 

We stayed at La a natu (further along from Pranburi's main drag) which was right up there with some of the best hotels we have visited and enjoyed in Thailand. Words don't do it justice - it has to be experienced - and it's highly recommended. Their complimentary afternoon tea is another wonderous thing.

La a natu - a pretty special place to escape from everything.

More Pranburi information

Magical, Mystery Isaan Tour

Suan Hin Phua Ngam Park - where dinosaurs used to roam.

After a terrific stay in Chiang Khan, Nong Khai (NK) was the next stop on our magical, mystery Isaan tour.

On the way to NK, we stopped at Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park to hike around, and up, one of the park's magnificent limestone mountains. Dubbed the Kunming (where similar mountains are found) of Loei district, the park is a gem and the 1.5 hour guided walk through the forest and up one of the famous peaks is highly recommended.

Besides clean air, panoramic views and an up close look at a wide variety of trees, plants, flowers, caves, fossils and vines the walk also means avoiding the iPhone-toting masses who prefer the tuk tuk tour.

Sofa Gallery Hotel - a perfect spot for relaxing by the river.

Hike completed, we enjoyed a quick lunch of gai yarn (BBQ chicken), larb (spicy minced meat salad) and somtam (green papaya salad) before getting back on the road.

A quick word on motoring in the northeast - local folks pass when they feel like it. If that reads as terrifying, it is, but it also works because oncoming drivers know to slow down. If you plan to drive in the region stay extra alert and road aware.

We reached NK in the late afternoon. NK is a major border town with the Thailand-Laos Friendship bridge just 25 kilometres away. For us, it was a good place to overnight and the quiet Sofa Gallery Hotel was the perfect spot to relax and recharge - big thanks to hotel manager Khun Jack who was a terrific host.

Buffalo skin - an appetising appetiser for your next BBQ.

Next morning we walked NK's riverside promenade and shopped at the large central market. I liked the big food section and things to catch the eye included crunchy baguettes, spice packed local sausages and buffalo skin - good on the barbecue apparently - will have to try that next time.

We'd also like to visit the amazing looking Sala Keoku park in the future - it's on the to-do list.

After a quick visit to the city's main temple, we headed off to Khon Kaen (KK), one of the biggest cities in the province.

We saw in the New Year at a huge central city party enjoyed by tens of thousands. Props to the local authorities for putting on a well-organised street party. There were good vibes aplenty and few pissed up, obnoxious party goers - quite a contrast to similar events held in New Zealand (my home country) which often come to a violent, bloody and teary end.

Dinosaurs on the rampage at the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.  

Bright and beautiful suppaniga flowers in Khon Kaen.

Although we'd just celebrated the arrival of 2012, our first day of the new year was spent in the pre-historic past with a trip to the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.

About 150 kilometres from KK, the museum is renowned for its impressive and informative exhibits. However, our visit coincided with a national holiday and it was too crowded and noisy to enjoy the museum.

A bit of a downer, but our final couple of days in Buriram made up for the dinosaur disappointment.

Talk about saving the best for last.... I'm not usually big on ancient temples and ruins and I'm ashamed to say I was half asleep when my wife mentioned the 10th century Phanom Rung temple (which sits on top of 380-metre extinct volcano) and the 11th century Khmer-period Prasat Mueang Tam sanctuary.

Both sites were gobsmacking beautiful, incredible, atmospheric and amazing. I won't prattle on any more and let the photos do the talking.

Soaking up the history at Prasat Mueang.

Early morning at Phnom Rung.

Loads of room to roam.

Although we only saw a fraction of this blessed part of Thailand, we're now converts and truly, madly, deeply in love with Isaan - we'll be back soon and hopefully often. 

Supanniga Home

Supanniga New Year's welcome.

Unaccustomed as I am to staying in luxury resorts, when the rare opportunity arises, I make a wholehearted effort to enjoy every waking moment.

Not that any effort was required at the super Supanniga* Home in Khon Khaen. While it's the smallest boutique hotel to feature on the prestigious Relais & Chateaux list of global boutique lodgings, it's an absolute giant in terms of style, atmosphere, class, service and comfort.

It's also exclusive with just three large luxurious villas built on the 16-acre tree, flower and shrub laden property. So there's plenty of room, shade and privacy - there are also many tables, walking paths, benches and even a tree house in the vast garden.

Once unpacked and settled in, this Isaan Garden of Eden is pretty hard to leave. We loved strolling in the garden, reading, lazing about and overdosing on the serenity.

Our room with a garden view. 

The 'stay-in' factor is enhanced by the beautifully designed and appointed villas decked out with vintage Thai furniture and mod cons. Our villa was spacious and included a sizeable kitchen, dining room and 'back to nature' inspired outdoor bathroom.

The Villa.

If you're hungry, there are many dining options including Krua Supanniga by Khun Yai, the intimate in-house cafe as well as a host of neighbourhood eateries. Oh, and the Supanniga breakfast (the Isaan breakfast menu is recommended) is a special and memorable thing - given the positive vibe inducing environment however, even burnt toast and gruel would taste good here.

One of many green resting spots around the 16 acre property.

Though it has all the elements to deliver a par excellence guest experience, it's the human touch that makes Supanniga a superstar boutique hotel.

Breakfast for champions and minions.

From arrival until departure we received "service from the heart" and big thanks to the lovely and gracious owner, her family and staff for their hospitality, warmth and smiles.

Supanniga web site
Report from the Independent newspaper

*The hotel is named after the bright yellow flower growing in many parts of the grounds.

Farewell Supanniga, already looking forward to our next visit

Viva Riva!

If you mashed together New Jack City, Scarface, Juice, Fresh and added a dash of Mad Max, it would nearly match the sound and fury of Riva Viva!

As a lifelong fan of blaxploitation and gangsta (as in Boyz In The Hood) flavoured movies, I was looking forward to this 'straight out of Kinshasa' film about hustlers, pimps and thieves and it delivered in spades.

Sure, the Viva Riva! plot is nonsense but the story is told in such a raw, unflinching and 'cranked up to 11' style, a wild and entertaining ride is guaranteed.

The film is centered around Viva, a charming, charismatic gangster, who steals a truck load of gasoline from Angolan crooks to sell in gas-deprived Kinshasa for fistfuls of cash. Trouble is, Cesar, the Angolan crime boss wants his petrol back, while local kingpin, Azor wants a piece of the action. Throw in Azor's stunningly beautiful girlfriend, Nora, a morally conflicted priest, a streetwise kid and a lesbian military officer and you have a crackerjack of a movie.

Word of warning, some of the violent scenes are hardcore, in some places, laughably over the top, but they just add to the film's visceral thrills and spills.  

A Perfect Day in Chiang Khan

Junior and me besides one of my favourite cars.

After years of talk but no action (I'm a world-class time waster) we recently made a long awaited visit to Isaan province (northeast Thailand).

Ok, we only covered about 40% of this vast province, but we'll be back - Isaan rocks.

What's not to like? Incredible scenery, clean air, sandstone mountains and caves, kick-ass cuisine, many accommodation options, pickup trucks aplenty, a unique culture, sugar cane, slightly cooler climes, super friendly people and sod all backpackers and tour group tourists.

Am I raving? You bet. 

Offering food to monks - a great way to start the day.

First stop was Chiang Khan (CK) on the Mekong River. CK is touted as a 'next big thing' destination and while growth is inevitable, it'd be a shame to see CK overrun with tourists.

Right now, CK offers a winning combination of old village charm with well-preserved, Laos-styled wooden shophouses, and incredible scenery, thanks to the Mekong and the nearby Phu Ruea National Park. Cycling is also the transport option of choice for many.

Our day began at 6.00 am to offer food to the local monks. This was followed by a delicious jok (rice porridge) and patongkoh (fried bread) at the Soi 9 corner breakfast shop. 

Fed and watered, we caught a ride to the Phu Tok summit where we stared (with open mouths) at the stunning foggy morning mountain vista.

Back down to earth we drove to the river to book a late afternoon boat cruise. The view of the sandstone mountains, jungle backdrop and the massive Mekong was breathtaking and well, life affirming.

Beautiful morning view from Phu Tok.

Boat ride sorted it was time for lunch at Pa Suang (PS) CK's best known somtam (green papaya salad) and gai yarn (BBQ chicken) shop. PS is a rough and ready no-frills joint where you basically sit in the cooking area and fair dinkum, the food was fantastic.

Their somtam includes many vegetables in the mix, as well as teardrop shaped noodle bits that added texture and another option - in addition to sticky rice - to soak up the sweet, salty, sour and ultra spicy dressing.

I was also delighted to see chicken feet served on the BBQ chicken plate - nothing is wasted.

Post lunch, caffeine was needed and there are plenty of cafes serving quality coffee at really affordable prices - between 35 - 40 baht for a latte or an Americano. We loved Book Cafe on Soi 9 which is a good place to sip coffee, read the internet, daydream and people watch. In addition, the owners are fun, friendly and relaxed and let us lounge on our own while they went out for a bowl of noodles.

Many guest houses & shops offer bicycles for visitors to use.

Khun Pairoj, the owner of Phu Chiang Khan guest house was another kind, friendly soul - he was also knowledgable, hospitable and helpful.

The main feature of his guest house is a big 1953 film projector as well as seats and bold coloured movie posters from the town's old cinema owned by his family.

Khun Pairoj's property, like many other other retro-themed shophouses on walking street, are honeypots for photographers and posing couples aplenty (which would get annoying during vacation high seasons).

We concluded our perfect day with a Mekong cruise that took us up close to Laos and the surrounding jungle and sandstone mountains. Back on land, we strolled down walking street visiting stores and galleries and buying snacks from food vendors.

Although it's quite a hike to CK, make the effort because it's a great alternative to Thailand's other destinations. If you can't live without malls, pubs, clubs, fast food joints and convenience stores, CK probably ain't the place for you.

However, if slow living, amazing nature, clean air and friendly folks is what floats your boat plan a trip now.

We're major fans - put it this way, if I could choose a 'Groundhog Day' location, I'd be happy to spend day after day after day after day in Chiang Khai.

Click to visit a good CK photo feature published in the Bangkok Post.

The mighty Mekong at sunset.

Pa Suang's tasty and explosive somtam salad.