Viva Riva!

If you mashed together New Jack City, Scarface, Juice, Fresh and added a dash of Mad Max, it would nearly match the sound and fury of Riva Viva!

As a lifelong fan of blaxploitation and gangsta (as in Boyz In The Hood) flavoured movies, I was looking forward to this 'straight out of Kinshasa' film about hustlers, pimps and thieves and it delivered in spades.

Sure, the Viva Riva! plot is nonsense but the story is told in such a raw, unflinching and 'cranked up to 11' style, a wild and entertaining ride is guaranteed.

The film is centered around Viva, a charming, charismatic gangster, who steals a truck load of gasoline from Angolan crooks to sell in gas-deprived Kinshasa for fistfuls of cash. Trouble is, Cesar, the Angolan crime boss wants his petrol back, while local kingpin, Azor wants a piece of the action. Throw in Azor's stunningly beautiful girlfriend, Nora, a morally conflicted priest, a streetwise kid and a lesbian military officer and you have a crackerjack of a movie.

Word of warning, some of the violent scenes are hardcore, in some places, laughably over the top, but they just add to the film's visceral thrills and spills.  

A Perfect Day in Chiang Khan

Junior and me besides one of my favourite cars.

After years of talk but no action (I'm a world-class time waster) we recently made a long awaited visit to Isaan province (northeast Thailand).

Ok, we only covered about 40% of this vast province, but we'll be back - Isaan rocks.

What's not to like? Incredible scenery, clean air, sandstone mountains and caves, kick-ass cuisine, many accommodation options, pickup trucks aplenty, a unique culture, sugar cane, slightly cooler climes, super friendly people and sod all backpackers and tour group tourists.

Am I raving? You bet. 

Offering food to monks - a great way to start the day.

First stop was Chiang Khan (CK) on the Mekong River. CK is touted as a 'next big thing' destination and while growth is inevitable, it'd be a shame to see CK overrun with tourists.

Right now, CK offers a winning combination of old village charm with well-preserved, Laos-styled wooden shophouses, and incredible scenery, thanks to the Mekong and the nearby Phu Ruea National Park. Cycling is also the transport option of choice for many.

Our day began at 6.00 am to offer food to the local monks. This was followed by a delicious jok (rice porridge) and patongkoh (fried bread) at the Soi 9 corner breakfast shop. 

Fed and watered, we caught a ride to the Phu Tok summit where we stared (with open mouths) at the stunning foggy morning mountain vista.

Back down to earth we drove to the river to book a late afternoon boat cruise. The view of the sandstone mountains, jungle backdrop and the massive Mekong was breathtaking and well, life affirming.

Beautiful morning view from Phu Tok.

Boat ride sorted it was time for lunch at Pa Suang (PS) CK's best known somtam (green papaya salad) and gai yarn (BBQ chicken) shop. PS is a rough and ready no-frills joint where you basically sit in the cooking area and fair dinkum, the food was fantastic.

Their somtam includes many vegetables in the mix, as well as teardrop shaped noodle bits that added texture and another option - in addition to sticky rice - to soak up the sweet, salty, sour and ultra spicy dressing.

I was also delighted to see chicken feet served on the BBQ chicken plate - nothing is wasted.

Post lunch, caffeine was needed and there are plenty of cafes serving quality coffee at really affordable prices - between 35 - 40 baht for a latte or an Americano. We loved Book Cafe on Soi 9 which is a good place to sip coffee, read the internet, daydream and people watch. In addition, the owners are fun, friendly and relaxed and let us lounge on our own while they went out for a bowl of noodles.

Many guest houses & shops offer bicycles for visitors to use.

Khun Pairoj, the owner of Phu Chiang Khan guest house was another kind, friendly soul - he was also knowledgable, hospitable and helpful.

The main feature of his guest house is a big 1953 film projector as well as seats and bold coloured movie posters from the town's old cinema owned by his family.

Khun Pairoj's property, like many other other retro-themed shophouses on walking street, are honeypots for photographers and posing couples aplenty (which would get annoying during vacation high seasons).

We concluded our perfect day with a Mekong cruise that took us up close to Laos and the surrounding jungle and sandstone mountains. Back on land, we strolled down walking street visiting stores and galleries and buying snacks from food vendors.

Although it's quite a hike to CK, make the effort because it's a great alternative to Thailand's other destinations. If you can't live without malls, pubs, clubs, fast food joints and convenience stores, CK probably ain't the place for you.

However, if slow living, amazing nature, clean air and friendly folks is what floats your boat plan a trip now.

We're major fans - put it this way, if I could choose a 'Groundhog Day' location, I'd be happy to spend day after day after day after day in Chiang Khai.

Click to visit a good CK photo feature published in the Bangkok Post.

The mighty Mekong at sunset.

Pa Suang's tasty and explosive somtam salad.

The Duke's Chiang Mai

Happiness is a long table full of Duke's dishes.

With so much sublime and affordable food in Thailand some ask why I'd ever crave middle of the road western eats such as burgers, pizza, meatballs in tomato sauce and sticky ribs.

Those asking have never dined at The Duke's - a Chiang Mai (CM) institution - that gives US-influenced food a bloody good name. A meal at the Ping River located Dukes restaurant has become a tradition when we visit CM.

What's the attraction? Hugh quality  cuisine at mid-level prices and probably the best hamburger in the Kingdom. I'm a no-frills burger guy, get the basics right - like they do at The Duke's - and the rest takes care of itself and no need for messy extras such as cheese, eggs, mushrooms, onions etc. 

The Duke's beef patty is succulent, just right in terms of seasoning, and flavoursome with a slightly smoky taste. The patties are complimented by homemade buns that are light and yeasty. Other faves include the breaded fish and string fries, chargrilled steaks, meat filled sandwiches, homemade foccacia bread, crisp thin crust pizzas and tangy, tender pork spare ribs.

If getting high on the hog is not your thing, I recommend the warm spinach salad with crispy bacon bits and a zingy balsamic dressing. 

To fully embrace The Duke's experience bring friends, quite a few, because the portions are Texas-sized and there's plenty to choose from. And though you'll be in calorie overload for the next week it would be a crime to ignore the Duke's desert counter. 

I've never come across a better apple pie in Thailand and their cheesecakes and chocolate cakes are equally attractive and delicious. 

If you can't get to CM, but live in Bangkok, good news, you can grab a Duke's burger at The Duke's Express restaurant in the Emporium mall.

Duke's Bangkok web site

Perfect harmony - Steak and mash perfection.

Nice and cheesy does it ....

Apple crumble & ice cream - big enough to bring down the Titanic.

Songs Of The Year

Thank you Jhene Aiko for making R&B crazy, sexy and very, very cool again.

I'm a sucker for any Ronettes-inspired song and Lykkie backs up the wall-of-sound with a big, gutsy, and passionate vocal (in a good way, not like annoying American Idol screamers).

Vodka and tonic - a wonderful crooning performance from Mr National, Matt Beringer, beautifully complimented by Sharon Jones.

Beautiful dreamy, Duran Duran'ish sounding track (to my ears) that took me away to another place.

"What'ya gonna do when I Maa Nonu you!" Should have been NZ's official Rugby World song - finest sports song since "World In Motion."

Medici Kitchen and Bar

The united colours of Italy on a plate. 

Whatever your pre-conceived thoughts and views about Bangkok throw them out the window.

While it's not changing at the same rapido pace as major Indian and Chinese cities, Bangkok is hardly snoozing with interesting new malls, buildings and hotels opening on a regular basis.

A terrific example is the new Hotel Muse Bangkok (HMB) on Soi Langsuan. This former apartment has been nipped, tucked and facelifted into a chic, elegant central city boutique hotel. Design-wise, it tastefully blends 19th-century French architecture and style with King Rama V era furnishings and art.

I'm terrible re: interior descriptions - but this line from an article nails it pretty well.

"Think dark woods, black and silver trimmings, immense white enamel bathtubs with silver feet."

A great place for a Goodfellas-styled sit down.

As with many hotels, HMB boasts a host of eateries and bars and last week, we dined at the Medici Kitchen and Bar. A walk down the sweeping staircase takes you to a spacious and luxurious Tuscan-inspired eatery featuring brick walls, faux wine barrels, leather banquettes, two large private dining rooms and a roasting spit.

Opulent yes, but not over-the-top opulent. And just when I thought I had seen it all in Bangkok, the Medici experience was intensified with a pre-dinner opera performance from a group of young singers!

Operatic theatrics over, it was time to order and eat. The Medici menu includes a good selection of pasta, seafood, meat and tapas type dishes - not huge - but more than enough alternatives for everyone. The wine list is also generous.

Beef tenderloin with a red wine sauce.

My main was excellent - seared tuna served with a tomato salsa, rocket lettuce and a zesty dressing. My buddy's seafood kebab was impressive as was the beef tenderloin with red wine sauce wolfed down by my wife and daughter. We also enjoyed a steamed mussel and seafood platter starter.

The show-stopper however, was Medici's signature truffle ravioli that tasted as good as it looked.

All up, a memorable, if a slightly pricy (for BKK but v reasonable anywhere else in the world) dining experience and perfect for a special treat.

A word of warning - if you are allergic to Bangkok's 'hi-so' crowd, you may want to find another place.

The Medici signature dish - the truffle ravioli. It tasted as good as it looked.

Headshot (Fon Tok Kuen Fa)

The lone wolf assassin (The American), vigilante/samurai (Drive) cinematic theme that's in vogue right now continues with Fon Tok Kuen Fa (Headshot) - the latest offering from acclaimed Thai director, Pen-ek Ratanaruang.

Although the film's "good cop who is blackmailed, gets shot and damaged, and has to break bad and also battles moral demons" plot, is not new - and has a couple of creaks - Headshot is compelling, stylish and engrossing.

It's beautifully filmed and viewers are kept on their toes thanks to a non-linear storyline and abrupt changes in pace - often languid, then jolted with rapid fire action scenes.

In addition, the main lead actors Nopachai Jayanama, Chanokporn Sayoungkol and Cris Horwang are incredibly attractive and have presence, lots and lots of the stuff actualy. As well, local rapper, Joey Boy burns up the screen in his brief, but intense appearance as a well-dressed, psychotic, unhinged torturer.

Headshot is also topical and relevant with the director taking subtle pot shots, throughout the film, at the evils of corruption, nepotism and capitalism gone wild.

Finally, after watching so many films set in New York or Los Angeles, it's refreshing and pretty bloody wonderful to see an atmospheric and beguiling Bangkok showcased so brilliantly on celluloid.

Go see - but be patient - let the film's charms wash over and slow boil into your mind and body.

Headshot web site

Long Journeys Wear Me Out...

Jack Dee (far left) and the other excellent characters in Lead Balloon

But they provide a good opportunity to catch new movies and a host of TV shows in a single (albeit uncomfortable) sitting.

My 11-hour haul from Auckland to Bangkok began with a light starter - an hour of UK chef, Rick Stein driving and eating across Spain.

With his easy going TV manner and approach, Rick comes across as a bloody good bloke. My beef with his show, and similar offerings, is that unlike us in the real world, Rick never eats a horrible dish or dines at a rank restaurant.

Rick's culinary saunter was followed by romcom "Friends With Benefits" (FWB). Don't ask me why but romcoms are long haul cinematic faves. Maybe watching beautiful people living beautiful lives eases the pain of sitting in a tin can for 10+ hours. 

Rocco - a real person or a celebrity chef cyborg?

FWB wasn't awful - in fact, this film about a fuck buddy relationship that goes wrong then comes right (I think), is filled with plenty of good lines.

On this performance, Justin Timberlake to me, is a better support player than main man. By comparison, his sparring partner, Mila Kunis, has way more acting and comedic chops. But the film's real star is Woody Harrelson who crackles and pops in his brief time on screen.

More New Yorkers falling in and out of love was next on the viewing schedule with "Something Borrowed" (SB) - a long-winded stinker. SB strives to realise comedic and dramatic ambitions but fails to hit ether target. The only saving grace was the performance of John Krasinsky as the smart but lonely guy, while Kate Hudson was annoying to say the least. Avoid!!!!

After this flatulent dross, I needed some Food Channel escapism and "Rocco's Dinner Parties" sated this hunger. However, one question? Is host Rocco DiSpirito a real person or a celebrity chef cyborg? The man is too perfect to be true.

There was more goodness with my final selection, two episodes of "Lead Balloon," a comedy series co-written and starring Jack Dee, a leading UK comedian. He plays a washed up, delusional TV star who thinks his best days are still ahead of him. It's not dissimilar to "Curb Your Enthusiasm" but triumphs nonetheless thanks to its Britishness and host of terrific support characters and actors.