Chanthaburi

Open spaces, mangroves and clean air at the Ban Khun Kraban nature trail - what more do you want? 

Between the heavenly islands of Koh Chang and Koh Kut and the devil's playground that it is Pattaya, lies Chanthaburi province - an under-the-radar, understated old charmer of a district that offers plenty of scenic, historical and eating treats.

Where the forest meets the ocean.

Like Isaan and northern Thailand, Chanthaburi life is unhurried and untarnished by 'tourism baggage' associated with Thailand's big name destinations such as Phuket and Hua Hin.

So it's not over-developed, crowded or hyped but it is bloody interesting (at least to me) as the province incorporates Chinese, French, Vietnamese and Thai influences.

While our stay was relatively short (3 days/2 nights) a return trip is on because we ran out of time to enjoy the firefly-spotting night walk.

Our highlights included:

Amazing setting for the temple in Namtok Phliu National Park. 

Ao Ban Khun Kraben Nature Trail - Walk the well designed 2000 metre boardwalk through the mangrove forest to learn more about the flora, fauna and overall ecosystem in the area. There are many information signs along the way and the absolute best part is the walk out from the forest to the open sea and coast line - stunning. As well, the trail includes swinging bridges, kayaking areas and the biggest tree house (about five stories up) that we've ever seen for bird watching and epic sunrise or sunset photos.

Namtok Phliu National Park - Only 17 kilometres from the city, the national park is pretty popular and for good reason - there are not many places where you can swim with, and feed, hundreds of mad barb (carp) fish. Be sure to buy a big bunch of string beans (the mad barb's food of choice) before entering the park. Keep walking into the rain forest park and the other main attraction is the picturesque Pliu waterfall that's great for swimming and more fish feeding.

Carp feeding time at the Pliu waterfall.

We spent loads of time at both places and look forward to more natural thrills in future visits including hot springs, beaches, more waterfalls, mangroves, mountain hikes and islands.

At the Oasis Sea World punters have the chance to swim with pink dolphins but sadly, this adventure was unavailable during our visit. Another time .. another time...

Back in the city, the landmark Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception - one of the oldest catholic churches in South East Asia - is well worth checking out.

Chantaburi's landmark cathedral.

Built in 1908-09, the current cathedral is version four, with the first constructed by French missionaries and Vietnamese catholics more than 275 years ago. In a nation of buddhist temples and shrines, this gothic styled cathedral certainly stands out and is spectacular inside and out. In addition, a few of the neighbouring homes beautifully showcase traditional Vietnamese architecture and design.

For a bit of the more familiar cross the bridge and take a stroll through the old town where little has changed since the early 1900s. While some stores are being renovated the majority remain untouched but that is likely to change as the area regenerates and revitalises.

Food wise, Chanthaburi is famed for durian and other fruit and seafood, especially crab. We didn't have time to delve into the traditional eats but we recommend the elegant Chanthorn Pochana restaurant as a good place to learn more about local curries such as moo cha muang (a smokey pork curry) and salads including a refreshingly delicious mangosteen salad.

Khun Lookpong (left) - aka the Duke of Chantaburi.

Khun Lookpong, the Chanthorn Pochana manager is amiable, knowledgeable and very much the host with the most. He is passionate about promoting his home town and based on what we saw, and experienced, he has a lot to be proud of.

Finally, for a noodle dish that ranks as one of the best ever eaten in Asia, make room in your stomach for the seafood yen ta fo served by the famous Joy Phen Seafood street restaurant.

Yeah, yeah, the bright red sweet and spicy sauce ladled on top makes it look like something out of an old Hammer horror or 60s and 70s Hong Kong kung fu movie.

But this dish is the real deal, the Rolls Royce of noodle dishes. Fat noodles, fresh crab meat, scampi, fish balls, prawns, crunchy prawn crackers, morning glory and more make for a memorable meal and I'm still salivating and Chanthaburi dreaming.

Hungry yet? Only 2.5 hours drive from Bangkok to Joy Phen Seafood.

Tex the Pink Dolphin at Oasis Sea World.

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