Bangkok Snapshot

Things you can't do or bring into a cab in Bangkok, from left: Fresh durian, dogs, alcohol, pass wind, make babies, ?, vomit, and smoke.

Aree Bar

Hard liquor heaven - superb selection for spirits drinkers.

If a Pad Thai Western film is ever made in Thailand, the relatively new Aree Bar would be perfect for the obligatory saloon scenes and shots.

It's darkish brown, exposed brick interior, wooden floors, bar stools, round and long tables, swinging doors and a whiskey and bourbon laden open bar evokes a Siam 'honky tonk' vibe (in a good way).

Triple treats, from left: salmon larb, lemon grass steamed mussels and chicken knuckles.

Run, I believe, by the same family/group, who manage the very successful (and good) Salt restaurant across the road, Aree Bar is built for drinking and snacking Thai style.

So not too many beers or wines, but an excellent selection of spirits complemented by a compact menu of glab glaem (Thai bar snacks and salads) dishes. While the menu is quite small, the dishes are full of big flavours, packing as much punch as their impressive selection of bourbons and single malts. We really liked our lemon grass steamed mussels and salmon larb.

Calm before the storm - all quiet before the band kicks into action.

And why aren't deep fried lemongrass chicken knuckles on more bar menus around the world? Yes, the cholesterol damage is likely to be immense but now, and again, they are finger licking awesome.

In addition to hard liquor and bar nibbles, Aree is popular as a live music venue - we visited too early to catch any acts but given its layout, and vibe, I think Aree Bar would be a good place to watch a band. Wonder if Willie Nelson or Tammy Wynette are keen to play Bangkok?

More information about Aree Bar

Tete Quarters

Hold the calls.. I could be here for sometime.

No cash to fly to Paris? No worries, a dash of Left Bank panache can be enjoyed and embraced at the recently opened Tete Quarters (TQ) wine room and restaurant.

When owner, KK Chin invites you to "make yourself at home," he really means it and given TQ's prime riverside location coupled with its chic interior and decor, classic jazz soundtrack, comfy sofas and armchairs, you may never leave. 

TQ is the latest wine-themed bar / eatery to open in Bangkok but don't let that put you off. While many other Bangkok vino-inspired places are really pubs / clubs serving wine, the "swellegant" TQ is custom built for wine quaffing and clever conversation.

To complement the wine, there's lots to like on the diverse TQ menu and we especially enjoyed the spicy salmon som tam (with sweet strawberries to ease the heat).

Other delicious plates included succulent crab cakes, juicy burger sliders, a bacon-hock flavoured pumpkin soup (popular with us all) and big flavoured spare ribs. Their fragrant beef curry with roti deserves a special mention, as does the magnum ice cream with Baileys combo.

Ribs (top) and crab cakes (below).

You know this place is good when I've gone four paragraphs without mentioning its "money-shot" view of the Chao Phraya River. With Amorosa Bar now overrun with tourists, TQ is a terrific, and easier to reach, option for a sunset drink.

And if you need a break from wining, dining and talking, a window side seat offers a grandstand (sometimes hilarious) view of group tour tourists boarding the massive river dining cruise boats.

Finally, KK is a top bloke and magnificent host who is open to new ideas regarding the menu, wines, beers, and entertainment. He's taking his time to get TQ established and based on our night out, he's made a flying start and we can't wait to return.

Address: Room 226-228, 2nd floor
River City Shopping Center 
23 Yota Road Chareonkrung 
30 Talad Noi
Samphantawong
Bangkok 10100
Tel: 081-692-3647
Tete Quarters Facebook

Scala

I want this amazing light fitting for my dining room.

Waiters in dapper canary yellow blazers, old school chinese food, crooning lounge music and a 1970s interior with original decor..... welcome to Bangkok's famous and fantastic Scala restaurant.

Because they don't make them like this anymore - in a non-ironic way - I'm sure Quentin Tarantino would have a wet dream about this restaurant and its 100% pure retro vibe. I really like the kitsch overload massive light fitting with its hundreds of orange glass tubes and bulbs.

The music is a bit special as well. If you love the dulcet and sweet tones of Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Patsy Cline, Glen Campbell and other hit-makers from the 50s, 60s and 70s Scala is the place for you. When I'm there, I always half expect my departed dad and father-in-law to walk in - they both loved these timeless classics.

Keeping it old school with original decor and furnishings.

If I ran a heritage trust the entire Scala cinema complex (in which the restaurant is housed) would be declared a national treasure.

Like the Odeon (or is it the Jubilee Cinema?) in central Singapore near Raffles Hotel, Scala has presence, stature and style.

Although the grand dame is aging and creaking, I absolutely love this place. Scala represents not only Bangkok's past, but also many great films enjoyed by hundreds of thousands of Bangkokians.

Back to the Scala food. The menu is old school chinese and I reckon the food and menus haven't changed much since opening days in the 1970s.

Click here for a super blog with amazing photos of some of the restaurant's greatest hit dishes.

Perfectly cooked Peking Duck - the dish that keeps generations of customers coming back again and again and again.

The dish that brings people through the doors is Peking Duck. The Scala chefs have it mastered and it's carved table side for added impact. I hope Scala never disappears and if you're looking for a history-rich place serving excellent food for lunch or dinner make a booking soon.

More Scala info

Medici Kitchen and Bar

The united colours of Italy on a plate. 

Whatever your pre-conceived thoughts and views about Bangkok throw them out the window.

While it's not changing at the same rapido pace as major Indian and Chinese cities, Bangkok is hardly snoozing with interesting new malls, buildings and hotels opening on a regular basis.

A terrific example is the new Hotel Muse Bangkok (HMB) on Soi Langsuan. This former apartment has been nipped, tucked and facelifted into a chic, elegant central city boutique hotel. Design-wise, it tastefully blends 19th-century French architecture and style with King Rama V era furnishings and art.

I'm terrible re: interior descriptions - but this line from an article nails it pretty well.

"Think dark woods, black and silver trimmings, immense white enamel bathtubs with silver feet."

A great place for a Goodfellas-styled sit down.

As with many hotels, HMB boasts a host of eateries and bars and last week, we dined at the Medici Kitchen and Bar. A walk down the sweeping staircase takes you to a spacious and luxurious Tuscan-inspired eatery featuring brick walls, faux wine barrels, leather banquettes, two large private dining rooms and a roasting spit.

Opulent yes, but not over-the-top opulent. And just when I thought I had seen it all in Bangkok, the Medici experience was intensified with a pre-dinner opera performance from a group of young singers!

Operatic theatrics over, it was time to order and eat. The Medici menu includes a good selection of pasta, seafood, meat and tapas type dishes - not huge - but more than enough alternatives for everyone. The wine list is also generous.

Beef tenderloin with a red wine sauce.

My main was excellent - seared tuna served with a tomato salsa, rocket lettuce and a zesty dressing. My buddy's seafood kebab was impressive as was the beef tenderloin with red wine sauce wolfed down by my wife and daughter. We also enjoyed a steamed mussel and seafood platter starter.

The show-stopper however, was Medici's signature truffle ravioli that tasted as good as it looked.

All up, a memorable, if a slightly pricy (for BKK but v reasonable anywhere else in the world) dining experience and perfect for a special treat.

A word of warning - if you are allergic to Bangkok's 'hi-so' crowd, you may want to find another place.

The Medici signature dish - the truffle ravioli. It tasted as good as it looked.

Baan Maii Chaii Klong

Great eats, superb location.

Inspired by the TV series, "The Trip" my good friend, Awi and I, recently ventured to the edge of Nonthaburi to dine at one of his favourite home district restaurants.

When Awi said the eatery was out of the way, and hard to find, he wasn't kidding. We finally got to Baan Maii Chaii Klong (BCMK) after a 20 minute drive that took us down small side streets and through quiet, leafy neighbourhoods.

Though we were only 35-40 minutes from the centre of Bangkok, this old klong-side family restaurant offers a feel, or a glimpse of life in the capital before skyscrapers, sky trains, expressways, mega malls, whitening creams, soap operas, condos and subways.

Sitting under a big shady sala, surrounded by old trees and huge plants, and nursing an ice cold lime soda, it was a happy Monday. In addition, my accompanying junior food critic daughter enjoyed the river vista watching fish, bathing dogs, boat vendors, a visiting stork and three fat cats.

This was sloooow dining at its best and a perfect counter to the searing midday heat. And the food itself? We kept it pretty simple - prawn cakes, vegetable stir fry, moo dad jiew (pork jerky) and a fire-starting yum tua phu (wing bean salad) - and it was all good, very good.

The selection is massive so we'll have to come back with more people to fully sample their extensive menu. Given its special and serene location, it's a happening spot in the weekend so a booking is a must to enjoy this true 'hidden gem' of a restaurant.

Baan Maii Chaii Klong Facebook page

Besides good food, enjoy a quieter, gentler and more laid back Bangkok.

Rustic, simple and tasty dishes. The rice includes cubes of taro as well as corn.

Surviving (and Enjoying) Bangkok 2

Sartorial offender - click here for more horrors. 

Our first Surviving (and Enjoying) Bangkok list of travel tips was well read and received - here's part two for your enjoyment and edification.

1) Dress for success. Unless you want to be hassled by tuk tuk drivers and pushy street vendors across the capital avoid wearing any of the following - singlets (especially singlets with local beer logos), bandanas, floral shirts with matching floral shorts, hiking pants/boots, 3/4 pants, beachwear, camouflage pants, crocs, sandals and socks, his & hers matching outfits, football shirts (unless Man U or Liverpool), sarongs, flip flops and t-shirts/caps that advertise your country of origin.

2) And when not in use try to keep the cameras, video cameras, smart phones and fanny packs out of sight.

3) If you are here for business never schedule a meeting between 11.30 am - 1pm. Bangkok people are easygoing about many things but nothing comes between them and their lunch break - it's the same in Singapore.

4) Cold beers should only be enjoyed in bars or restaurants. Slugging a can or bottle of beer whilst walking through malls, markets, on the street and train stations is not a good look.

5) One of the fastest, safest and cheapest (3 baht) ways to navigate Thonglor Road is by the little red bus that zooms up and down the busy road. Hail it on the street and when you want to disembark - just pull the buzzer chain.

If you must drink in public - stick to Khao San Road.

6) In pubs and clubs, no need to order drinks from the bar - find a seat or table and wait for the bar staff to take your order and to serve the drinks.

7) If you're travelling on the Sky Train and miss the next station announcement in English don't panic - the Thai announcement will follow. Listen for "satani"(station in Thai) then the name of the station e.g. National Stadium Station is Satani National Stadium.

8) A rough guide to the iconic MBK mall - Floors 1-3 - mostly clothing shops; floor 4 - smart phones, software, iPads, cameras and other electronics; floor 5 - furniture; floor 6 - more clothing and the famous MBK food court.

9) If you must visit the Patpong Night Market be warned - after 10 pm many circling vulture "metre-off" cab drivers will ask for a flat fee of 100 baht.

10) Street side fruit vendors will often drop a small sachet, of what looks like orange crystals, in the fruit bag. Relax, it's not an attempted drugs sting - the sachet contains a zesty dipping condiment made from salt, sugar and chillies.

Watch your step.

11) Please leave a tip after dining. While most high end eateries will include a 10% service charge it's good form to leave a tip of between 20-50 baht after dining at street stalls or cheaper restaurants.

12) If you want to order a vegetarian meal ask for an "ahan jae" meal.

13) So it's 2pm and you want to buy a 6-pack of beer from the supermarket or 7 (local slang for 7-11) to enjoy in the afternoon. Tough luck - booze can only be purchased from 11 am - 2 pm and from 5 pm - 10 pm. However, it is ok to purchase a slab of beer (24 cans/bottles) at anytime - why the exception for a 24-pack? I have no idea.

14) How to call for the bill at a restaurant? Kep Tang khrup/kha (the polite way) or check bin khrup/kha.

15) Watch your step - really. If you don't take care, BKK's sidewalks can become boulevards of broken legs and ankles - watch out for holes; broken and uneven pavements; dog droppings; wet concrete and broken glass. In addition keep an eye out for wandering baby elephants (not so common these days), street vendors and massage salesmen.

If you have other ideas/suggestions to add please send it to us.

Chiang Mai Now!

The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) is one of the coolest (architectural, artistic and air con wise) places in the capital and worthy of frequent visits.

Now is as good a time as any because the current Chiang Mai Now! exhibition is terrific. Full of fresh, original, quirky, irreverent and cheeky works - including paintings, sculptures, photographs installations and more - the exhibition reinforces Chiang Mai's reputation as a regional creative hothouse.

I really liked the ice cream stand display by the DOCUMENTARY team as well as the installation from the Chiang Mai Sunday Cycling Club. Another fave was the John and Yoko inspired "Art Is Over" photograph.

The massive graffiti wall on the circular walkway to the 9th floor is also eye-catching and a backdrop favourite with many snap happy visitors.

• More information about Chiang Mai Now! - the exhibition runs until June 19.
• A link to Hern-Art one of my favourite artists in Chiang Mai.
• If you've never been there - BACC is the impressive big white building opposite MBK.

Surviving (And Enjoying) Bangkok

We’re frequently asked for travel tips and advice in Bangkok and Thailand - here are some of the most important ones.

1) Best months to visit? October to January – the cool’ish season when temperatures average between 26–32 degrees. Besides hot season (March to May), the other months are also fine.  Rainy season runs from June to November - it doesn’t rain all day just a couple of hours every day.

2) Don’t try to cross major roads - especially via a zebra crossing – cars do not stop at zebra crossings!!! Always use the over bridge or traffic lights. If there are none – wait for a local to cross and follow closely.

3) It never gets cold in Bangkok so leave woolens and thermals at home.

4) Unless the first price is right for your wallet, bargaining is highly recommended at markets. But remember, storekeepers are much smarter and experienced than you, so don’t be a wiseass or bully. Yelling will not result in a lower price. Rule of thumb – the best starting price is 30-35% below the vendor’s initial asking price.

5) Take it easy and stay hydrated. If you’re a 5th gear type of person, drop it down a couple of gears to conserve energy. The heat and humidity takes its toll on everyone.

6) Quite a few attractions offer one price for locals and a more expensive one for tourists.  This upsets some but consider this… many travellers from the west earn 2-4 times more than local people.

7) All restaurants and hawker stalls provide four condiments (sugar, chilli, vinegar and fish sauce) to add to rice and noodle dishes. You are under no obligation to use them all – just add according to personal taste.

8) Common sense, common sense and common sense - many travellers take on different personas in the Kingdom. Some think they are Valentino Rossi and rent, and ride scooters and motorbikes, sans a helmet - Thai drivers and roads can be as dangerous as the ones in your home country.

9) Some men also transform into Brad Pitt and believe themselves to be irresistible to many women – depending on which bar you are at - ‘all that glitters is not gold’ can apply as does 'caveat emptor.'

10) Tuk Tuks for short distance journeys only and always agree a price before you jump in. And say no to all offers of visits to tailors, gem shops, seafood restaurants, massage parlours and temples.

11) Small notes are big notes especially if you plan to use taxis to get about. Besides asking a cab driver to change radio station, nothing upsets them more than pulling out a 500 or 1,0000 baht note to pay for the fare. So keep a chunk of coins and 20, 50 and 100 baht notes on you at all times. This advice also applies in Singapore.

12) There’s more to Thai cuisine than pad thai, green curry, tom yum soup and banana pancakes so don’t be afraid to broaden your culinary horizons. If you see an amazing dish on another table don’t be shy to ask what it is and order.  Equally important - ‘phet’ (pet) = spicy, 'phet mak mak' = very spicy  and ‘mai phet’ = not spicy.

13) While you don’t need to return a wai to everyone - it is a nice gesture, especially to seniors.

14) Where possible, use the Sky Train, subway or water taxis to get around Bangkok. Motorbike taxis for emergencies only or super short trips.

15) Jatujak Market is an impenetrable maze for first timers. So if you see something that appeals make the purchase because it's unlikely you'll be able to find the stall again.

16) Beer and ice. Seems strange and is a no-no in many countries. In the tropics however, it makes a lot of sense where an ice cold beer can warm up pretty rapidly without an ice cube or two.

17) Thailand comes to a standstill twice a day - at 8 am and 6 pm - when the national anthem is played so be prepared to stand and pay respect wherever you are. The King's anthem is also played before all film screenings so same rules apply.

18) Sorry pedants. Thai city and suburb names translated into English can often be spelt in two or three ways - e.g. Thong Lor, Thonglo or Thonglor or Jatujak Market or Chaturchak Market. So don't panic if you think you think you have missed a station or gone to the wrong place because of spelling inconsistencies - you have to back your phonetic intuition.

Click here for part two of our Surviving (and enjoying) Bangkok tips.