Lost ... (and found)

Scala

2012-02-17T04:01:00.000-08:00

I want this amazing light fitting for my dining room.

Waiters in dapper canary yellow blazers, old school chinese food, crooning lounge music and a 1970s interior with original decor..... welcome to Bangkok's famous and fantastic Scala restaurant.

Because they don't make them like this anymore - in a non-ironic way - I'm sure Quentin Tarantino would have a wet dream about this restaurant and its 100% pure retro vibe. I really like the kitsch overload massive light fitting with its hundreds of orange glass tubes and bulbs.

The music is a bit special as well. If you love the dulcet and sweet tones of Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Patsy Cline, Glen Campbell and other hit-makers from the 50s, 60s and 70s Scala is the place for you. When I'm there, I always half expect my departed dad and father-in-law to walk in - they both loved these timeless classics.

Keeping it old school with original decor and furnishings.

If I ran a heritage trust the entire Scala cinema complex (in which the restaurant is housed) would be declared a national treasure.

Like the Odeon (or is it the Jubilee Cinema?) in central Singapore near Raffles Hotel, Scala has presence, stature and style.

Although the grand dame is aging and creaking, I absolutely love this place. Scala represents not only Bangkok's past, but also many great films enjoyed by hundreds of thousands of Bangkokians.

Back to the Scala food. The menu is old school chinese and I reckon the food and menus haven't changed much since opening days in the 1970s.

Click here for a super blog with amazing photos of some of the restaurant's greatest hit dishes.

Perfectly cooked Peking Duck - the dish that keeps generations of customers coming back again and again and again.

The dish that brings people through the doors is Peking Duck. The Scala chefs have it mastered and it's carved table side for added impact. I hope Scala never disappears and if you're looking for a history-rich place serving excellent food for lunch or dinner make a booking soon.

More Scala info

Chez Marco

2012-02-15T00:43:00.000-08:00

Best food city in Thailand? If variety, availability, cooking inventiveness and scale are the judging benchmarks - Bangkok is the hands down winner.

However, when it comes to value for money, as well as quality and freshness of ingredients, we think Chiang Mai edges it. One eatery that showcases these qualities and more (much more) is Chez Marco (CM), a popular and lively french restaurant.

Located at the top end of busy and boisterous Loi Khro Road in the old town, the CM kitchen prepares and serves some of the best southern french food that I've ever eaten outside of Provence and Avignon.

*Lemon and pepper crusted lamb chops - one of the best lamb dishes that I've ever eaten.

On taste, flavour, quality, presentation and serving sizes it far outscores french eateries visited in Singapore and Bangkok.

CM also scores big on atmosphere, and whether sitting indoors or in the open air front area, big laughs and plenty of banter is almost mandatory.

Chargrilled aubergine and capsicum salad.

Dish sharing is also encouraged and we started with big plates of beef carpaccio, chargrilled vegetables and a smoked chicken salad. Our mains included a hulking rib eye perfectly cooked (grilled beautifully on the outside, pink and juicy on the inside), lemon and pepper crusted lamb cutlets, sizzling hot pan fried squid and prawns, duck and a simple pasta. Everything was devoured by our table of six happy diners.

Duck with apple and balsamic sauce.

Our desert orders of apple crumble cheesecake, creme brulee, chocolate cake and coffee ice cream took us to new heights on the joy richter scale and I'm hoping it won't be too long before I can dine at this magnificent restaurant.

There's still plenty on the menu to be tried and savoured and we didn't even get onto the wine list.

Chez Marco FB page
Great interview with Chef Marco
And another

*Photos borrowed from CM's FB page - hope that's ok.

Doi Inthanon

2012-02-13T03:28:00.000-08:00

Doi Inthanon - a magical place.

We adore northern Thailand. We especially love the peaceful, easy "Chiang Mai state of mind" the city puts us in whenever we visit.

And just when you think you've seen everything Chiang Mai (CM) has to offer, a new destination appears on the radar.

Last weekend we scaled the heights of Doi Inthanon (Thailand's highest point - 2,565 metres up) on Saturday and Mon Cham, a hillside village, the next.

If you believe the journey is as important as the final destination - a good car is essential - and we were lucky to have the use of a Toyota Prius.

As long as it's safe and reliable we're not too fussy about car type etc. However, robocar (our nickname for the Prius) dragged us into the future of motoring and we loved it. Sure, it ain't the most stylish car on the road but the technology, fuel efficiency and comfort made it a compelling package and we were sad to return it to its proud owner.

Stage one of the hike - some challenging parts on the way up.

Robocar was also silent and powerful and made the ascent up Doi Inthanon with ease. But there was no need to rush because a visit to one of the four waterfalls on the way to DI's summit is a must.

Plenty of shady cover in the evergreen forest.

We enjoyed lunch at Mae Klang waterfall (about 44 kilometres from CM) which provided a spectacular scenic backdrop for our feast of gai yarn, laab, salt baked fish with herbs and som tam. Besides the amazing view, there are small bridges and paths around the waterways to enjoy - in less than two minutes the junior members of our group were running and screaming around the walkways.

True grit - one of the biggest rock formations on the wild and windy west side.

Leaving Mae Klang we drove for another 35 minutes to the summit, stopping five kilometres short (just past the spectacular Napamaythanadol Chedi) to do the three kilometre Gew Mae Plan hiking track.

How good was this track? Just after completing the loop, I was keen as mustard to do it again.

Walking down from the viewing spots along the well-maintained track. Don't forget your jacket - it gets pretty wild and windy on this ridge.

While there are a few steep parts, overall it's a fairly comfortable 2.8 kilometre walk thanks to a well organised and designed hiking track. And if it was fine for the five, six and eight year olds in our group it should also be fine for you. The first kilometre passes through dense forest areas offering lots of shade, a picturesque waterfall stop and plenty of singing birds.

My attempt at an arty, atmospheric shot.

Out of the cover, hikers enjoy a first widescreen glimpse of the surrounding hills and canyons. From there it's a short little climb to a couple of amazing (and windy and chilly) "up in the clouds" viewing platforms offering panoramic sights that will make the hairs on the back of your neck stand up.

It's mostly downward from the platforms along an exposed ridge path that allows walkers to take in super views to the west and lots of flora and fauna, especially red rhododendron plants. I really enjoyed getting a close look at the massive jagged rock formation down from the viewing spot.

The ridge walk ends at a super spot to take photos of the Chedis before winding back into the evergreen forest towards the start/end point and car park.

Post-hike snacks - protein overload time

Gew Mae Plan is highly, highly recommended - especially in November - after rainy season when the forest is at its greenest and I hope to walk it then. As there's so much to see and do in the DI area it may pay to stay 2-3 days. Just note, the walk is closed between March to October.

More information
Another good link

Pranburi Dreaming

2012-01-22T20:29:00.000-08:00

As Hua Hin (HH) morphs into Bangkok by the sea, beach goers seeking a laid back Gulf of Thailand retreat should bypass HH and drive another 30 kilometres south to Pranburi.

While its beaches are a little more on the rugged side - compared to say, Ko Kut's pristine white sand beauties - the total Pranburi experience offers loads of restorative pleasures.

Besides long stretches of deserted beaches and coastline, the nearby Khao Sam Roi Yot (KSRY) National Park is a must visit stunner. KSRY boasts a stupendous selection of natural wonders including limestone mountains, mangroves, caves, beaches and a river.

If you're longing for a walk on the wild side, there are many superb forest and mangrove hikes and loads of animals, insects and birds to be spotted.

As we found out the hard way, be prepared for all conditions - so sensible hiking shoes and attire. What we were led to believe would be an easy 25-minute stroll up to a cave full of stalactites and stalagmites turned out to be a sweaty, treacherous slog that involved crawling and clinging on to vines at stages. It was worth it though - the cave and ocean view was stunning.

Khao Sam Roi Yot park coming into view.

If hiking isn't your bag, Pranburi's long, traffic free, coastal roads make it a driver's paradise - specially if you are behind the wheel of a powerful convertible (sadly, I wasn't).

But whatever your motor, you can't go wrong with blue skies, sandy beaches, lush landscapes and a Toots and the Maytals soundtrack.

Dining wise, there are quite a few outdoor restaurants along the coast serving excellent seafood at pretty reasonable prices.

The area is famed for its dried squid, cuttlefish and prawns so if you have to buy gifts for family and friends, these would probably be well received.

Gung Che Num Pla - soak the raw prawns in the lime juice, chilli, fish sauce, and garlic dipping sauce and eat - best washed down with an ice cold beer.

Post-sunset, things get pretty quiet in Pranburi and a trip back to Hua Hin is the best bet for nocturnal hijinks.

There is more selection in accommodation alternatives however with many mid-priced hotels and resorts catering for families and weekend visitors. I'm sure more high-end properties will surface - right now one of the standout top of the range hotels is Villa Maroc.

Is this afternoon tea worth driving 250+ kilometres for? You bet.

We stayed at La a natu (further along from Pranburi's main drag) which was right up there with some of the best hotels we have visited and enjoyed in Thailand. Words don't do it justice - it has to be experienced - and it's highly recommended. Their complimentary afternoon tea is another wonderous thing.

La a natu - a pretty special place to escape from everything.

More Pranburi information

Magical, Mystery Isaan Tour

2012-01-16T20:28:00.000-08:00

Suan Hin Phua Ngam Park - where dinosaurs used to roam.

After a terrific stay in Chiang Khan, Nong Khai (NK) was the next stop on our magical, mystery Isaan tour.

On the way to NK, we stopped at Suan Hin Pha Ngam Park to hike around, and up, one of the park's magnificent limestone mountains. Dubbed the Kunming (where similar mountains are found) of Loei district, the park is a gem and the 1.5 hour guided walk through the forest and up one of the famous peaks is highly recommended.

Besides clean air, panoramic views and an up close look at a wide variety of trees, plants, flowers, caves, fossils and vines the walk also means avoiding the iPhone-toting masses who prefer the tuk tuk tour.

Sofa Gallery Hotel - a perfect spot for relaxing by the river.

Hike completed, we enjoyed a quick lunch of gai yarn (BBQ chicken), larb (spicy minced meat salad) and somatm (green papaya salad) before getting back on the road.

A quick word on motoring in the northeast - local folks pass when they feel like it. If that reads as terrifying, it is, but it also works because oncoming drivers know to slow down. If you plan to drive in the region stay extra alert and road aware.

We reached NK in the late afternoon. NK is a major border town with the Thailand-Laos Friendship bridge just 25 kilometres away. For us, it was a good place to overnight and the quiet Sofa Gallery Hotel was the perfect spot to relax and recharge - big thanks to hotel manager Khun Jack who was a terrific host.

Buffalo skin - an appetising appetiser for your next BBQ.

Next morning we walked NK's riverside promenade and shopped at the large central market. I liked the big food section and things to catch the eye included crunchy baguettes, spice packed local sausages and buffalo skin - good on the barbecue apparently - will have to try that next time.

We'd also like to visit the amazing looking Sala Keoku park in the future - it's on the to-do list.

After a quick visit to the city's main temple, we headed off to Khon Kaen (KK), one of the biggest cities in the province.

We saw in the New Year at a huge central city party enjoyed by tens of thousands. Props to the local authorities for putting on a well-organised street party. There were good vibes aplenty and few pissed up, obnoxious party goers - quite a contrast to similar events held in New Zealand (my home country) which often come to a violent, bloody and teary end.

Dinosaurs on the rampage at the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.

Bright and beautiful suppaniga flowers in Khon Kaen.

Although we'd just celebrated the arrival of 2012, our first day of the new year was spent in the pre-historic past with a trip to the Sirindhorn Dinosaur Museum.

About 150 kilometres from KK, the museum is renowned for its impressive and informative exhibits. However, our visit coincided with a national holiday and it was too crowded and noisy to enjoy the museum.

A bit of a downer, but our final couple of days in Buriram made up for the dinosaur disappointment.

Talk about saving the best for last.... I'm not usually big on ancient temples and ruins and I'm ashamed to say I was half asleep when my wife mentioned the 10th century Phanom Rung temple (which sits on top of 380-metre extinct volcano) and the 11th century Khmer-period Prasat Mueang Tam sanctuary.

Both sites were gobsmacking beautiful, incredible, atmospheric and amazing. I won't prattle on any more and let the photos do the talking.

Soaking up the history at Prasat Mueang.

Early morning at Phnom Rung.

Loads of room to roam.

Although we only saw a fraction of this blessed part of Thailand, we're now converts and truly, madly, deeply in love with Isaan - we'll be back soon and hopefully often.

Supanniga Home

2012-01-12T16:57:00.000-08:00

Supanniga New Year's welcome.

Unaccustomed as I am to staying in luxury resorts, when the rare opportunity arises, I make a wholehearted effort to enjoy every waking moment.

Not that any effort was required at the super Supanniga* Home in Khon Khaen. While it's the smallest boutique hotel to feature on the prestigious Relais & Chateaux list of global boutique lodgings, it's an absolute giant in terms of style, atmosphere, class, service and comfort.

It's also exclusive with just three large luxurious villas built on the 16-acre tree, flower and shrub laden property. So there's plenty of room, shade and privacy - there are also many tables, walking paths, benches and even a tree house in the vast garden.

Once unpacked and settled in, this Isaan Garden of Eden is pretty hard to leave. We loved strolling in the garden, reading, lazing about and overdosing on the serenity.

Our room with a garden view.

The 'stay-in' factor is enhanced by the beautifully designed and appointed villas decked out with vintage Thai furniture and mod cons. Our villa was spacious and included a sizeable kitchen, dining room and 'back to nature' inspired outdoor bathroom.

The Villa.

If you're hungry, there are many dining options including Krua Supanniga by Khun Yai, the intimate in-house cafe as well as a host of neighbourhood eateries. Oh, and the Supanniga breakfast (the Isaan breakfast menu is recommended) is a special and memorable thing - given the positive vibe inducing environment however, even burnt toast and gruel would taste good here.

One of many green resting spots around the 16 acre property.

Though it has all the elements to deliver a par excellence guest experience, it's the human touch that makes Supanniga a superstar boutique hotel.

Breakfast for champions and minions.

From arrival until departure we received "service from the heart" and big thanks to the lovely and gracious owner, her family and staff for their hospitality, warmth and smiles.

Supanniga web site
Report from the Independent newspaper

*The hotel is named after the bright yellow flower growing in many parts of the grounds.

Farewell Supanniga, already looking forward to our next visit

Viva Riva!

2012-01-10T17:49:00.000-08:00

If you mashed together New Jack City, Scarface, Juice, Fresh and added a dash of Mad Max, it would nearly match the sound and fury of Riva Viva!

As a lifelong fan of blaxploitation and gangsta (as in Boyz In The Hood) flavoured movies, I was looking forward to this 'straight out of Kinshasa' film about hustlers, pimps and thieves and it delivered in spades.

Sure, the Viva Riva! plot is nonsense but the story is told in such a raw, unflinching and 'cranked up to 11' style, a wild and entertaining ride is guaranteed.

The film is centered around Viva, a charming, charismatic gangster, who steals a truck load of gasoline from Angolan crooks to sell in gas-deprived Kinshasa for fistfuls of cash. Trouble is, Cesar, the Angolan crime boss wants his petrol back, while local kingpin, Azor wants a piece of the action. Throw in Azor's stunningly beautiful girlfriend, Nora, a morally conflicted priest, a streetwise kid and a lesbian military officer and you have a crackerjack of a movie.

Word of warning, some of the violent scenes are hardcore, in some places, laughably over the top, but they just add to the film's visceral thrills and spills.

A Perfect Day in Chiang Khan

2012-01-04T22:27:00.000-08:00

Junior and me besides one of my favourite cars.

After years of talk but no action (I'm a world-class time waster) we recently made a long awaited visit to Isaan province (northeast Thailand).

Ok, we only covered about 40% of this vast province, but we'll be back - Isaan rocks.

What's not to like? Incredible scenery, clean air, sandstone mountains and caves, kick-ass cuisine, many accommodation options, pickup trucks aplenty, a unique culture, sugar cane, slightly cooler climes, super friendly people and sod all backpackers and tour group tourists.

Am I raving? You bet.

Offering food to monks - a great way to start the day.

First stop was Chiang Khan (CK) on the Mekong River. CK is touted as a 'next big thing' destination and while growth is inevitable, it'd be a shame to see CK overrun with tourists.

Right now, CK offers a winning combination of old village charm with well-preserved, Laos-styled wooden shophouses, and incredible scenery, thanks to the Mekong and the nearby Phu Ruea National Park. Cycling is also the transport option of choice for many.

Our day began at 6.00 am to offer food to the local monks. This was followed by a delicious jok (rice porridge) and patongkoh (fried bread) at the Soi 9 corner breakfast shop.

Fed and watered, we caught a ride to the Phu Tok summit where we stared (with open mouths) at the stunning foggy morning mountain vista.

Back down to earth we drove to the river to book a late afternoon boat cruise. The view of the sandstone mountains, jungle backdrop and the massive Mekong was breathtaking and well, life affirming.

Beautiful morning view from Phu Tok.

Boat ride sorted it was time for lunch at Pa Suang (PS) CK's best known somtam (green papaya salad) and gai yarn (BBQ chicken) shop. PS is a rough and ready no-frills joint where you basically sit in the cooking area and fair dinkum, the food was fantastic.

Their somtam includes many vegetables in the mix, as well as teardrop shaped noodle bits that added texture and another option - in addition to sticky rice - to soak up the sweet, salty, sour and ultra spicy dressing.

I was also delighted to see chicken feet served on the BBQ chicken plate - nothing is wasted.

Post lunch, caffeine was needed and there are plenty of cafes serving quality coffee at really affordable prices - between 35 - 40 baht for a latte or an Americano. We loved Book Cafe on Soi 9 which is a good place to sip coffee, read the internet, daydream and people watch. In addition, the owners are fun, friendly and relaxed and let us lounge on our own while they went out for a bowl of noodles.

Many guest houses & shops offer bicycles for visitors to use.

Khun Pairoj, the owner of Phu Chiang Khan guest house was another kind, friendly soul - he was also knowledgable, hospitable and helpful.

The main feature of his guest house is a big 1953 film projector as well as seats and bold coloured movie posters from the town's old cinema owned by his family.

Khun Pairoj's property, like many other other retro-themed shophouses on walking street, are honeypots for photographers and posing couples aplenty (which would get annoying during vacation high seasons).

We concluded our perfect day with a Mekong cruise that took us up close to Laos and the surrounding jungle and sandstone mountains. Back on land, we strolled down walking street visiting stores and galleries and buying snacks from food vendors.

Although it's quite a hike to CK, make the effort because it's a great alternative to Thailand's other destinations. If you can't live without malls, pubs, clubs, fast food joints and convenience stores, CK probably ain't the place for you.

However, if slow living, amazing nature, clean air and friendly folks is what floats your boat plan a trip now.

We're major fans - put it this way, if I could choose a 'Groundhog Day' location, I'd be happy to spend day after day after day after day in Chiang Khai.

Click to visit a good CK photo feature published in the Bangkok Post.

The mighty Mekong at sunset.

Pa Suang's tasty and explosive somtam salad.

The Duke's Chiang Mai

2011-12-19T07:50:00.000-08:00

Happiness is a long table full of Duke's dishes.

With so much sublime and affordable food in Thailand some ask why I'd ever crave middle of the road western eats such as burgers, pizza, meatballs in tomato sauce and sticky ribs.

Those asking have never dined at The Duke's - a Chiang Mai (CM) institution - that gives US-influenced food a bloody good name. A meal at the Ping River located Dukes restaurant has become a tradition when we visit CM.

What's the attraction? Hugh quality cuisine at mid-level prices and probably the best hamburger in the Kingdom. I'm a no-frills burger guy, get the basics right - like they do at The Duke's - and the rest takes care of itself and no need for messy extras such as cheese, eggs, mushrooms, onions etc.

The Duke's beef patty is succulent, just right in terms of seasoning, and flavoursome with a slightly smoky taste. The patties are complimented by homemade buns that are light and yeasty. Other faves include the breaded fish and string fries, chargrilled steaks, meat filled sandwiches, homemade foccacia bread, crisp thin crust pizzas and tangy, tender pork spare ribs.

If getting high on the hog is not your thing, I recommend the warm spinach salad with crispy bacon bits and a zingy balsamic dressing.

To fully embrace The Duke's experience bring friends, quite a few, because the portions are Texas-sized and there's plenty to choose from. And though you'll be in calorie overload for the next week it would be a crime to ignore the Duke's desert counter.

I've never come across a better apple pie in Thailand and their cheesecakes and chocolate cakes are equally attractive and delicious.

If you can't get to CM, but live in Bangkok, good news, you can grab a Duke's burger at The Duke's Express restaurant in the Emporium mall.

Duke's Bangkok web site

Perfect harmony - Steak and mash perfection.

Nice and cheesy does it ....

Apple crumble & ice cream - big enough to bring down the Titanic.

Songs Of The Year

2011-12-08T21:56:00.000-08:00

Thank you Jhene Aiko for making R&B crazy, sexy and very, very cool again.

I'm a sucker for any Ronettes-inspired song and Lykkie backs up the wall-of-sound with a big, gutsy, and passionate vocal (in a good way, not like annoying American Idol screamers).

Vodka and tonic - a wonderful crooning performance from Mr National, Matt Beringer, beautifully complimented by Sharon Jones.

Beautiful dreamy, Duran Duran'ish sounding track (to my ears) that took me away to another place.

"What'ya gonna do when I Maa Nonu you!" Should have been NZ's official Rugby World song - finest sports song since "World In Motion."

Medici Kitchen and Bar

2011-12-07T07:44:00.000-08:00

The united colours of Italy on a plate.

Whatever your pre-conceived thoughts and views about Bangkok throw them out the window.

While it's not changing at the same rapido pace as major Indian and Chinese cities, Bangkok is hardly snoozing with interesting new malls, buildings and hotels opening on a regular basis.

A terrific example is the new Hotel Muse Bangkok (HMB) on Soi Langsuan. This former apartment has been nipped, tucked and facelifted into a chic, elegant central city boutique hotel. Design-wise, it tastefully blends 19th-century French architecture and style with King Rama V era furnishings and art.

I'm terrible re: interior descriptions - but this line from an article nails it pretty well.

"Think dark woods, black and silver trimmings, immense white enamel bathtubs with silver feet."

A great place for a Goodfellas-styled sit down.

As with many hotels, HMB boasts a host of eateries and bars and last week, we dined at the Medici Kitchen and Bar. A walk down the sweeping staircase takes you to a spacious and luxurious Tuscan-inspired eatery featuring brick walls, faux wine barrels, leather banquettes, two large private dining rooms and a roasting spit.

Opulent yes, but not over-the-top opulent. And just when I thought I had seen it all in Bangkok, the Medici experience was intensified with a pre-dinner opera performance from a group of young singers!

Operatic theatrics over, it was time to order and eat. The Medici menu includes a good selection of pasta, seafood, meat and tapas type dishes - not huge - but more than enough alternatives for everyone. The wine list is also generous.

Beef tenderloin with a red wine sauce.

My main was excellent - seared tuna served with a tomato salsa, rocket lettuce and a zesty dressing. My buddy's seafood kebab was impressive as was the beef tenderloin with red wine sauce wolfed down by my wife and daughter. We also enjoyed a steamed mussel and seafood platter starter.

The show-stopper however, was Medici's signature truffle ravioli that tasted as good as it looked.

All up, a memorable, if a slightly pricy (for BKK but v reasonable anywhere else in the world) dining experience and perfect for a special treat.

A word of warning - if you are allergic to Bangkok's 'hi-so' crowd, you may want to find another place.

The Medici signature dish - the truffle ravioli. It tasted as good as it looked.

Headshot (Fon Tok Kuen Fa)

2011-12-01T02:14:00.000-08:00

The lone wolf assassin (The American), vigilante/samurai (Drive) cinematic theme that's in vogue right now continues with Fon Tok Kuen Fa (Headshot) - the latest offering from acclaimed Thai director, Pen-ek Ratanaruang.

Although the film's "good cop who is blackmailed, gets shot and damaged, and has to break bad and also battles moral demons" plot, is not new - and has a couple of creaks - Headshot is compelling, stylish and engrossing.

It's beautifully filmed and viewers are kept on their toes thanks to a non-linear storyline and abrupt changes in pace - often languid, then jolted with rapid fire action scenes.

In addition, the main lead actors Nopachai Jayanama, Chanokporn Sayoungkol and Cris Horwang are incredibly attractive and have presence, lots and lots of the stuff actualy. As well, local rapper, Joey Boy burns up the screen in his brief, but intense appearance as a well-dressed, psychotic, unhinged torturer.

Headshot is also topical and relevant with the director taking subtle pot shots, throughout the film, at the evils of corruption, nepotism and capitalism gone wild.

Finally, after watching so many films set in New York or Los Angeles, it's refreshing and pretty bloody wonderful to see an atmospheric and beguiling Bangkok showcased so brilliantly on celluloid.

Go see - but be patient - let the film's charms wash over and slow boil into your mind and body.

Headshot web site

Long Journeys Wear Me Out...

2011-11-26T22:22:00.000-08:00

Jack Dee (far left) and the other excellent characters in Lead Balloon

But they provide a good opportunity to catch new movies and a host of TV shows in a single (albeit uncomfortable) sitting.

My 11-hour haul from Auckland to Bangkok began with a light starter - an hour of UK chef, Rick Stein driving and eating across Spain.

With his easy going TV manner and approach, Rick comes across as a bloody good bloke. My beef with his show, and similar offerings, is that unlike us in the real world, Rick never eats a horrible dish or dines at a rank restaurant.

Rick's culinary saunter was followed by romcom "Friends With Benefits" (FWB). Don't ask me why but romcoms are long haul cinematic faves. Maybe watching beautiful people living beautiful lives eases the pain of sitting in a tin can for 10+ hours.

Rocco - a real person or a celebrity chef cyborg?

FWB wasn't awful - in fact, this film about a fuck buddy relationship that goes wrong then comes right (I think), is filled with plenty of good lines.

On this performance, Justin Timberlake to me, is a better support player than main man. By comparison, his sparring partner, Mila Kunis, has way more acting and comedic chops. But the film's real star is Woody Harrelson who crackles and pops in his brief time on screen.

More New Yorkers falling in and out of love was next on the viewing schedule with "Something Borrowed" (SB) - a long-winded stinker. SB strives to realise comedic and dramatic ambitions but fails to hit ether target. The only saving grace was the performance of John Krasinsky as the smart but lonely guy, while Kate Hudson was annoying to say the least. Avoid!!!!

After this flatulent dross, I needed some Food Channel escapism and "Rocco's Dinner Parties" sated this hunger. However, one question? Is host Rocco DiSpirito a real person or a celebrity chef cyborg? The man is too perfect to be true.

There was more goodness with my final selection, two episodes of "Lead Balloon," a comedy series co-written and starring Jack Dee, a leading UK comedian. He plays a washed up, delusional TV star who thinks his best days are still ahead of him. It's not dissimilar to "Curb Your Enthusiasm" but triumphs nonetheless thanks to its Britishness and host of terrific support characters and actors.

KK

2011-11-13T19:10:00.000-08:00

I'd just about given up hope of finding a half-decent South East Asian eatery in Auckland.

Thanks and praise then to the chefs and owners of KK restaurant in Epsom for preparing and serving delicious, affordable and 'real thing' Malaysian cuisine.

Like many of the best dining places in Asia, KK is an unpretentious gem where substance (well cooked and flavoured food) is more important than style (flashy decore, waiters with attitude and Buddha Bar soundtracks).

And as it's well established, KK has built a loyal customer base and is always full, or close to.

Tofu genius - crispy on the outside, like custard on the inside.

As the menu is sizeable, food selection was left to our Malaysian food expert who ordered a spicy stir fried eggplant dish, deep fried tofu drizzled with crunchy peanuts, a sweet chilli sauce and sliced cucumbers, chicken curry (the house speciality and worthy of its status) and mummy's ribs - spare ribs grilled with a sweet, sticky sauce and covered with sesame seeds.

Every plate was a tasty winner - why? Unlike many Asian eateries in Auckland, the KK food was well seasoned (not too sweet or salty) and bang on in terms of "true-to-Malaysia" flavours.

In addition to the top-notch cuisines, the night was extra enjoyable thanks to the company of old friends - we swapped work war stories including epic typos encountered in our respective careers such as eight cups of sugar cake recipes.

No ingredient fails at KK and for an intermittent spice junkie like me - it's one of the best places in Auckland for a decent hit of sambal and chilli padis.

KK address and contact information

RIP Smokin' Joe

2011-11-08T17:37:00.000-08:00

Rest in peace Smokin' Joe.

Joe Frazier was the ultimate warrior and while he racked up more life experience miles than money, he commanded absolute respect from opponents and fight fans alike. If there was an 'all-time most feared pugilists' list, I've no doubt Joe would be number one.

The shots he and Muhammad Ali threw in the 70s were felt, and cheered on around the world, including my tiny hometown in New Zealand. Their titanic clashes, and other classics of the time, involving George Foreman, Ken Norton, Larry Holmes and others were must watch events at home.

Even though live TV coverage then was blurry, badly shot and over-saturated (colour-wise), the fights generated the same levels of anticipation and excitement as a rugby test match. It was a golden age for the sport and at my school you were either in the Ali or Frazier camp.

I was a huge Ali fan (still am) but really warmed to Frazier in recent times especially after watching the excellent "Thriller In Manila" documentary. Respect Joe and wherever you are now, I hope you have great people in your corner.

If You Can't Stand The Peat....

2011-11-07T13:31:00.000-08:00

If you can't stand the peat, avoid Rex Attitude (RA), a peat-smoked golden ale produced by the Yeastie Boys, a couple of clever, innovative and (it seems) hard case Kiwi brewers.

Shock was the immediate response after my first slug - I thought someone had poured three shots of Laphroaig into a glass of lager and stirred.

Here's the product description from the RA beer label....
... Rex Attitude is inspired by French techno and the whiskey of Scotland's west coast. Like the 'Auld Alliance' it combines a little Scottish rogue with a dose of French 'je ne sais quoi.' It is as far we know the world's first beer made from 100% heavy peated distilling malt....

But once you get over RA's unusual flavour combination, it's like the best albums in your music collection, a slow burner that delivers a rich, rewarding and refreshing drinking experience.

It also packs a Manny Pacquiao-like punch. No surprise, given its scotch whiskey roots, and at 7%, RA is best supped and savoured rather than slam dunked.

One Is The Magic Number

2011-10-30T15:27:00.000-07:00

Hope the landlord didn't visit during the world cup period.

There's a thin line between love and hate and no one appreciates this more than the New Zealand All Blacks (AB) rugby team.

Big ups to the team for winning the 2011 Rugby World Cup (with a desperate 8-7 win over France last week) to bridge a 24-year gap between victory drinks.

A single point - one, uno, tahi - was all that separated the team, AB skipper, Richie McCaw and Graham Henry, the coach from eternal pain.

While they played with style, class and courage throughout most of the six week tournament, the final was an ugly beauty - not one for repeated viewing. But as in most big, big sporting clashes the final result is all that is remembered.

Brothers from another planet.

It takes two to make a contest and huge praise and props to France for being at the enigmatic best in the competition. I've always been a big France fan because like the ABs at their best, they play with verve, flair, passion and a fair degree of controlled mayhem.

My love has only increased because in the current uber-professional environment where players are over-coached, over-cooked and over-analysed, the French refuse to conform.

They're not shy to express the full range of emotions. Like Auckland's ever changing weather they can be emotional, moody, happy, angry, brooding, insouciant insolent and detached in a short space of time - they are very human and long may they remain like this - in my eyes, consistency is a little overrated in sport (guess that's why I also support West Ham United).

All-in-all, a fantastic tournament and here are my injury time thoughts after six weeks of living, breathing, but not dreaming, rugby.

Props to Tongan supporters for getting the 2011 RWC party started.

Player of the tournament - Israel Dagg - is this Kiwi an Aussie in disguise? He has Ocker confidence, the stepping, swerving skills of David Campese and a booming Roger Gould-like punt. And his semi-final wonder offload deserves to be as widely recognised and praised as Campo's outrageous no-look fling it back pass to Tim Horan in the 1991 semi against the All Blacks.

Young Guns of the tournament - Pre-tournament, not many of us knew much about the Welsh fab four of Warburton, Faleatu, Priestland and Lydiat but they came, played, and nearly conquered - thanks Wales for making the six nations watchable again. Their stirring performance against the Springboks will live long in the memory.

Thanks to the 2011 All Blacks for lifting NZ's happiness index.

Game of the tournament - My favourite live game was the Australia v Ireland pool match. Auckland was like mini-Dublin on the day - complete with grey skies and drizzly rain - and the Irish team and their fans responded big time. Watching up high gave a great view of Quade Cooper and Kurtley Beale's deadly "from deep" running skills but the Irish played a smart, simple and brutally effective game to strangle the Aussies. The Irish front row got stuck in and flanker, Sean O'Brien was a revelation to neutral spectators - the passionate "go Seany go" chant from my neighbouring Irish fan will stay long in my memory. And if there was a world cup for supporters, the Irish would win this hands down every time - what a super bunch.

Favourite World Cup memory #1 - No single game, but a couple of road trips with good friends to Hamilton were great fun, had many funny moments and produced a key learning - never go supermarket shopping after a few beers.

Irish fans go crazy - NZ will welcome them with open arms next year.

Favourite World Cup memory #2 - Again, not game related, but I enjoyed a terrific rugby comedy night held on the eve of the cup final. The four rugby comedians - Martin Beyfeld, Eric Rush, Vince Sorrenti and Ian Robertson were all polished, witty and bloody hilarious speakers - an unexpected highlight.

Eden Park Upgrade Request #1 - When the NZRU has more dollars in the bank please build a statue/sculpture of Tony Woodcock's try scoring dive in the final and place it next to the excellent Michael Jones sculpture.

Finally...WTF - How/why was All Black Everything not the official All Black anthem? Thanks and praise to Scribe and P Money for this lyrical and musical gem - probably the best sports anthem ever.

A View From the Cheap Seats

2011-09-26T15:10:00.000-07:00

Rugby brings people together one beer at a time.

While it may be the end of the western world as we know it, we're partying like it's 1999 down here in New Zealand (NZ).

As hosts of the 2011 Rugby World Cup (RWC) NZers old, young and in-between are embracing host responsibilities big time.

It's as if we're all putting on a national wedding for 100,000+ international guests and no one wants to be the party-pooper.

I'm doing my part by going to eight matches (six down and two to go) to make up for 14 years of no live rugby - the Hong Kong and Singapore Sevens tournaments don't count as they are just expat piss ups where men and women do things they wouldn't normally do at home.

Based on my rugby travels so far, every game has been terrific for a variety of reasons and here are five of my bonus point (good) and dropped pass (bad) observations so far.

Bonus Points

1. RWC has been a great catalyst for NZ cities to get spruced and gussied up. Auckland now looks like an international city with a beautiful harbour and downtown area -- the city just needs 250,000+ more people and a widespread transport system that works.

Can't get enough of the Samoan team's Siva Tau.

2. RWC volunteers are on good drugs. Maybe not, but the volunteers I've come across are unfeasibly nice, happy, chirpy and doing a great job.

3. Bonhomie aplenty among locals and visiting fans - even the Aussies. Though the Wales v Samoa game was mostly awful, I had a great afternoon talking shit and having a laugh with the three Aussies and an Irish bloke sitting near by. There was no spitting, malice or bad vibes just a lot of laughs and piss taking all round.

4. RWC is showcasing NZ's diversity to the world. Led by the polynesian and Maori communities, it's great to see Maori songs, traditions and themes incorporated in opening ceremonies, welcomes and other events. S'pose Asia will be represented when a player of Asian descent makes the All Blacks - could be a long time though .... probably as long as it takes for a train in Auckland to arrive...

5. Andrew Mehrtens - my favourite comments guy - I enjoy his insightful, sharp, opinionated and funny comments. He has a personalty and knows a lot about European rugby - more Mehrts please.

Dropped Passes

A nation of millions is praying for a world cup win.

1. What's with the shit food sold at the games?? Thought NZ, like many other developed nations, has an obesity problem so why just chips, hotdogs, pies and burgers for sale at games? Sponsor's orders? While I'm not expecting prawn sandwiches, canape and a hot and sour tofu hotpot what about other easy to heat and serve items like BBQ'ed chicken, fried rice, noodles, subs, sandwiches, wraps and burritos.

2. Dumb ass business owners. Two Sundays back, Hamilton was buzzing with thousands of Samoan, Welsh and rugby fans from all parts of the globe wandering about the city before the 3.30pm kickoff. My four travelling buddies and I wandered into the city square at lunchtime - which you'd expect to be a hive of activity - only to find that more than half of the restaurants were closed. Guess business must be booming in the Tron.

3. Eden Park. Yeah, yeah they shoulda built a waterfront stadium and all that -- but they didn't and we've got a stadium that looks like it was designed by five different architects. Still, it produces a great atmosphere for the big games - but the eight minute climb up the scaffolding stairs to the Sandringham Road cheap seats is a challenge for many. It's a long way to the bottom if you want a sausage roll!

4. No vuvuzelas!!! Just joking, but I am missing drums, trumpets, bagpipes, trombones, maracas and other atmosphere adjusting instruments and devices to add more sonic power at the matches.

5. This song - played before every game. I don't like it but I can't get it out of my head. And it hurts me to admit that it does put everyone in a good mood.

Triplets Brasserie

2011-08-12T22:20:00.000-07:00

TB's charming courtyard - more great photos from their FB page

Triplets Brasserie (TB) is chic and elegant like Audrey Hepburn, and likely to become as iconic (local dining-wise) as the Hollywood legend.

Recently relocated from its former address in Thonglor, TB version 2 is right at home at its new central, and salubrious Luang Sang neighbourhood in the Luxx Hotel compound.

When we stepped into the stylishly lit TB courtyard we were immediately charmed and enchanted.

Cuisine wise, TB's extensive and well-thought out menu is equally attractive and appealing. Grouped under six categories - Verrine, Brochette, Small Plate, Salad Bowl, Pasta Bowl and Dinner Plate - it offers a great opportunity to share dishes tapas or dim sum style.

As we were in celebration mode, we ordered a host of different things including crab schnitzel balls, seared tuna salad, calamari, steak lollipops, crab pasta and a baked scallop and cheese dish.

The crab schnitzel, with a thick and crunchy breadcrumbed casing, was crammed full of fresh crab meat. Another hit was the seared tuna served with strawberries, a pink peppercorn dressing and leaves - an unlikely looking combination on the plate - but simply sensational when devoured. And the beef tenderloin lollipops were tender, juicy, full of flavour and one of the best beef dishes that we've ever eaten in Bangkok.

As with all good eateries, the ingredients, sauces and side dishes are super fresh and locally sourced, or made, including a selection of cheeses and sausages.

I'm not sure what the Triplets in the restaurant name refers to, but we gave TB a triple A rating - it's a rank that even Standard and Poors would find hard to dispute.

The volcanic chocolate molten cake.

Seared tuna with a pink peppercorn sauce and sliced strawberries.

TB website

BK Post review

Sing Along With The Yoots

2011-08-05T09:49:00.000-07:00

We heart this album so much. It's our 'go to' playlist in the car, especially when we are in chronic Bangkok gridlock, like last night when it took an hour to cover five kilometres.

The Yoots, comprising top musicians from a number of leading New Zealand bands including Fat Freddy's Drop and the Black Seeds, take classic Maori songs put them through a funk, ska, reggae, country, soul and acid jazzy wash to produce a superb set of head nodding, toe tapping, huge grin inducing tunes.

The songs really resonate with me because as a young fella growing up in Manutuke - a tiny rural Maori town south of Gisborne, NZ - they were the soundtrack to weddings, 21st parties, bus trips, pub sing-alongs and more.

This collection has also been a good way to introduce my daughter and wife to a few timeless classics and both are now huge fans. While I love all the songs, the last track, Po Atarau (Now Is the Hour) is my favourite. A traditional farewell song, it always brings a tear to the eye - don't ask me why.

I recommend the album to everyone especially expat New Zealanders living in faraway lands.

Buy the download or CD
NZ Herald review

Salt

2011-07-31T19:35:00.000-07:00

Another great reason to visit Ari - cheers to this site for this photo.

I'd been eager to dine at this new'ish Ari joint for ages and thank buddha it lived up to expectations (this rarely happens).

In many ways, it's a slightly trendier cousin of Pl Dib, which is just around the corner on Ari Samphan. For example, the Salt menu is chock full of Japanese and other Asian influenced dishes and flavours and sports the same industrial-minimalist interior look - there's even a 'towering inferno' wood fired pizza oven near the kitchen.

Whether you are enjoying the "alfresco aspect" in the cool backyard, lounging in the daybed section or sitting in the glasshouse front dining area, Salt offers a fun, funky and chic eating experience. My nephew, sister-in-law and me especially enjoyed looking out the big windows to get an up close view of Ari street life.

Our attention was quickly diverted when the first of our many orders arrived. Every dish was well cooked and presented and received a thumbs up from the junior and senior members at our table. My bro-in-law described the moist, beautifully cooked snow fish as 'joy on a plate.'

Other top picks? A fresh and zesty salmon carpaccio; a hearty beef shank platter served with cute spice cubes (like Oxo stock cubes but red and spicy); delicious tuna and fried salmon skin sushi and a juicy, cheesy margherita pizza that my bro-in-law declared to be as good as anything encountered during his many years of eating in New York.

Only an overcooked duck confit failed to impress - but one disappointment out of eight ain't bad. Given the other interesting and mouthwatering options available including beef ragu ravioli, frogs legs and a spicy lamb dish we'll most definitely be back.

Finally, a word on the atmosphere. We loved Salt's inclusive vibe - while it's one of the most fashionable new entries on the BKK dining landscape right now it's a place where everyone can enjoy.

BK magazine's review
Salt's Facebook page

Before..

And after 10 minutes in the wood fired oven

The flavoursome tuna and fried salmon skin sushi roll that offered a nice crunch factor

The Thai-styled beef shank and its spice cube condiment

The snow fish described by my bro-in-law as 'joy on a plate.'

Fatty, Fatty Friday

2011-07-29T04:47:00.000-07:00

Three slices of pure, unsaturated and delicious audio fatness from Prince Fatty... Nirvana and Cypress Hill never sounded better.

Hanna

2011-07-27T07:59:00.000-07:00

Given the choice between Harry Rotter 5 or Hanna, I put my money on the latter and what an inspired decision it turned out to be. Give me a teen killing machine over a young wizard anytime.

Like the best movie experiences, Hanna far exceeded my expectations - though full disclosure, I knew next to nothing about the film before viewing.

While the plot is fairly conventional, director Joe Wright brings a fresh take on the action/thriller genre fusing Leon (The Professional), Run Lola Run, Nikita and Walkabout.

For me, the best scenes were the ones in which Hanna (Saoirse Ronan) - who had been raised in the arctic wilderness - encountered other humans, modern gadgets and objects for the first time. In her eyes, the everyday and ordinary appear wildly exotic, familiar, enthralling and chaotic.

The film also contains more than a dash of humour courtesy of the English family who befriend Hanna. The daughter (Jessica Barden) almost steals the show as do her mum (the always excellent Olivia Williams) and dad (Jason Flemyng).

In addition, Tom Hallander, playing a German assassin is brilliant - his tennis gear attired character is a mix of Attila The Hun and Elton John.

Overall, a 3.5 stars out of 5 for me. The only thing that didn't quite work was the Chemical Brothers soundtrack - a little too boombastic for my ears - though the quieter, folkier tracks were good.

Baan Maii Chaii Klong

2011-07-24T07:45:00.000-07:00

Great eats, superb location.

Inspired by the TV series, "The Trip" my good friend, Awi and I, recently ventured to the edge of Nonthaburi to dine at one of his favourite home district restaurants.

When Awi said the eatery was out of the way, and hard to find, he wasn't kidding. We finally got to Baan Maii Chaii Klong (BCMK) after a 20 minute drive that took us down small side streets and through quiet, leafy neighbourhoods.

Though we were only 35-40 minutes from the centre of Bangkok, this old klong-side family restaurant offers a feel, or a glimpse of life in the capital before skyscrapers, sky trains, expressways, mega malls, whitening creams, soap operas, condos and subways.

Sitting under a big shady sala, surrounded by old trees and huge plants, and nursing an ice cold lime soda, it was a happy Monday. In addition, my accompanying junior food critic daughter enjoyed the river vista watching fish, bathing dogs, boat vendors, a visiting stork and three fat cats.

This was sloooow dining at its best and a perfect counter to the searing midday heat. And the food itself? We kept it pretty simple - prawn cakes, vegetable stir fry, moo dad jiew (pork jerky) and a fire-starting yum tua phu (wing bean salad) - and it was all good, very good.

The selection is massive so we'll have to come back with more people to fully sample their extensive menu. Given its special and serene location, it's a happening spot in the weekend so a booking is a must to enjoy this true 'hidden gem' of a restaurant.

Baan Maii Chaii Klong Facebook page

Besides good food, enjoy a quieter, gentler and more laid back Bangkok.

Rustic, simple and tasty dishes. The rice includes cubes of taro as well as corn.

Raan Ahan Thai Gold Bay Leaves

2011-07-10T04:03:00.000-07:00

The amazing Chef Chai who with one wok, a BBQ grill and small baking/roasting
oven, weaved culinary magic. He makes Top Chef contenders look like pretenders.

NB - Since I blogged in July 2011 - Chef Chai has moved to bigger premises and renamed the restaurant Gold Bay Leaves - though it's a few more train spots down the Sukhumvit line the food remains awesome.

After months of my pal Adam talking up the pla chu chi (fried fish in a curry sauce) at one of his favourite Pra Khanong neighbourhood eateries, I was honoured and delighted when he finally invited me and other chums to dine at this fabled restaurant.

Did Krua Suan Pak (fresh vegetable kitchen) live up to the hype? Most definitely. Though modest in appearance - think a family dining room complete with a big screen TV and karaoke system - the food served at Krua Suan Pak is five-star delicious. And price wise, Krua Suan Pak is easy - real easy - on the pocket.

The pla chu chi was flavoursome, coconut creamy, sweet and packed a slow burn spice punch. I also enjoyed a fiery eggplant, tomato and onion stir fry, while the black mushrooms in a bok choy main were super fresh and great tasting. My salmon larb order didn't hit the same high notes, only because the salmon was not as fresh as the chu chi snapper.

Like many Thai restaurants, the menu is extensive, chock full of Thai food staples as well as western styled steak and pork dishes and even pasta. My friend's prawn pesto pasta was as good as you'd get in a more pricy joint in mid-Sukhumvit.

Besides the food, make an effort to visit this cool neighbourhood and enjoy its community vibe - it reminded me of Bangkok when I first arrived in 1998. Enough words, here are some terrific photos provided our buddy, Mulyadi, a multi-media genius and incredible photographer.

Pla chu chi - before

10 minutes later...

Super fresh bok choy and black mushrooms

Larb salmon

Steamed rice served with a banana leaf cone to keep the rice warm.

Great Song, Video and Song Title

2011-07-07T19:25:00.000-07:00

This dub collaboration with Dennis Bovell is also a bit special.

Happy Birthday USA

2011-07-04T03:43:00.000-07:00

Colours, Colours, Colours

2011-07-01T00:01:00.000-07:00

A link to my Social Media NZ article on how social media has engaged more expat Thais to vote in the weekend's national election.

Thais turn to Facebook ahead of critical election

Luv A Duck

2011-06-27T04:24:00.000-07:00

The star of the show. More fantastic photos here.

Best Peking duck in Bangkok? In our opinion, head straight to Great Shanghai for a magnificent Peking duck dining experience.

It's our 'go-to' eatery for family get-togethers and celebrations and Great Shanghai rarely disappoints - my wife and her family have been regulars for 30+ years.

The main drawcard is the roasted to perfection Peking duck and its aromatic, golden brown, crispy skin.

Put a slice of duck skin in a light, but slightly chewy pancake, combine with spring onion, cucumber and hoi sin sauce and bite - taste buds will rejoice and knees are likely to buckle.

Prawn toast - a favoured starter.

In addition to the skin, the duck meat is minced and stir fried with diced green beans and served in a lettuce cup. The bones are also used in a peppery, sour soup with bitter melon and pickled vegetables.

To complete the gourmet experience, our other 'standard issue' orders include super high heat stir fried prawns, Szechuan glass noodles, prawn toast, steamed chicken, sweet and sour fish (one of the best in the city), and stir fried beef.

Given its prime Sukhumvit location, near the corner of Soi 24, Great Shanghai is busy most nights attracting many regulars like us, Japanese families in the neighbourhood and tourists.

Like Silom Patakan, Great Shanghai is a Bangkok dining institution and little has changed in terms of decor and food over the years. It's highly recommended if you are a fan of simple, but superbly cooked chinese cuisine - food and dishes that won't give you an MSG hangover the day after.

Address and map details

Loving this so much, very much, right now

2011-06-25T18:53:00.000-07:00

Fire In Babylon

2011-06-22T18:50:00.000-07:00

The four horsemen - Roberts, Holding, Croft and Garner.

I don't like cricket.. I love it ... but I've lost touch with the modern game because in SE Asia, the game is as popular as bland tasting food.

As I tell many non-cricket fans - Americans basically - cricket is the ultimate test of mind, body and spirit. That's why this documentary on the West Indian cricket team (1978-90) - one of the greatest, meanest, hardest, skillful and successful outfits in the history of the game - was a high priority watch for me.

It doesn't disappoint. Any film featuring interviews and footage of legends such as Viv Richards, Michael Holding, Andy Roberts, Gordon Greenidge, Desmond Haynes, Joel Garner, Colin Croft, Clive Lloyd etc has a lot going for it. Throw in the wit and wisdom of Bunny Wailer, as well as great news clips from the 70s and 80s, and it's sure fire winner for cricket tragics.

As an avid rugby fan it was also interesting to note the similarities - re the struggle for acceptance and bigger pay cheques, faced by the West Indian cricketers back then - and polynesian rugby players and teams in relatively recent times.

My only beef was the lack of comment from notable opponents like Dennis Lillee, Jeff Thomson, Greg and Trevor Chappell and Tony Grieg. I wanted to know what they feared/hated/respected most about facing the Windies.

If you are watching at home get in a few cans of ice cold Red Stripe and crank up the bass because the reggae flavoured soundtrack is superb.

Fire In Babylon trailer

Red Pinn

2011-06-19T21:21:00.000-07:00

Baked green lipped mussels

Like Royal India - one of my favourite Indian eateries in Bangkok - Red Pinn is hard to find, but richly rewards those who make the effort to visit and dine.

Don't be deceived by its low-key East European tavern styled decor, if well-cooked, presented, seasoned and delicious 'inter' (international) cuisine is your thing, Red Pinn is the real deal. If there is a better value for money restaurant of this kind in the capital, please let me know where it is.

Last night, my extended family and I, devoured the following - chicken stroganoff pasta, cheese sticks, pumpkin and camembert salad, sweet potato crisps, latvian dumplings, baked mussels topped with a tomato salsa, bangers and mash, tuna bruschetta, quesadillas, scotch eggs, icecream, four beers, three lime sodas and two bottles of water.

Total bill = 2,100 baht (US$ 68). We're still digesting the magnificent food.

Lamb shank redemption.

There are many, many more dishes on the menu and we can't wait to go back to sample the others. The 'Full Monty' breakfast looks awesome and a possible challenge for super eater, Adam Richman from the Man v Food TV show.

Big thanks to another Adam (our Bangkok based pal - holla Adam ha ha) for this recommendation.

And more thanks for the great service provided by the Red Pinn owners and wait staff who were very hospitable hosts.

Red Pinn web site

Nest Bar

2011-06-14T03:02:00.000-07:00

Click here for more photos & more information.

Friday night and the lights are low at Nest Bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11. But not too low ... which is a good thing ... because Nest is one of the best people watching bars in Bangkok.

This funky and chic 'resort in the sky' themed watering hole is an "in-between"bar - in-between in that it's neither a pub, nor a club, but a hybrid venue attracting punters of all varieties.

Last Friday we shared the bar with tourists from all corners of the world, nervous first-time bar goers, a couple of guys who looked like members of Fleet Foxes, over and under dressed fashionistas, hansum men with their pretty playthings and more.

Our fave patrons included a wild young lady - sporting a wilder haircut - who quaffed red wine from the bottle. To quote Rick James, she was "a very kinky girl, the kind you don't take home to mama." We were also impressed by the man who was accompanied by three stunning women - he wore a permanent grin, and in footballer parlance, was over the moon, sick as a parrot and happy as Larry.

For a window to "Friday night Bangkok" rock up to Nest at 10 pm, find an empty nest like day bed, order a drink, recline and enjoy the view.

Nest Bar
Le Fenix Hotel (opposite Q Bar)
33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11

Silom Patakan

2011-06-12T19:50:00.000-07:00

The Silom Patakan pork chop.

After a recent mid-morning climb up to the Golden Mount at Wat Saket, we decided to refuel at the famous Silom Patakan (SP) restaurant on Silom Soi 15.

Opened in 1945 SP is one of Bangkok's first "east meets west," or fusion-styled eateries, and a favourite for my wife and her family. So it was great to introduce their delicious offerings, that have stood the test of time, to our daughter last week.

Everyone orders the succulent bread crumbed pork chop dish - it should be declared a national treasure.

The sweet and spicy chicken curry.

Other popular orders include steak salad made memorable by its tangy vinaigrette, a sweet and spicy chicken curry and - in my opinion - the best khao pad boo (crab fried rice) in town. The Silom version is light, moist, flavoursome and not at all oily - the decades old wok hei continues to work its magic.

If these dishes don't take your fancy there's plenty to choose from including thai, thai-lish and thai-chinese combinations aplenty. Their aromatic, super soft, white bread is another major attraction and many diners leave with a loaf or two as well as a few jars of their sweet and sinful Kaya (a bright green pandan) spread.

Old school dining.

Besides the awesome food come to enjoy Silom's old-style design and atmosphere (marble tables, spacious canteen styled dining area, high ceilings, overhead fans, wooden chairs, Worcestershire Sauce bottles on the tables, granite and cast iron decor) that's becoming harder to find in the capital. If you want to keep it really old school, they even have an abacus on hand to total up your bill.

Click here for more great photos

Address: 793 Silom Soi 15 (one soi up from the Hindu temple), Silom Road, Bangrak
Phone: 02 236 4442

Cedar Rapids

2011-06-11T06:47:00.000-07:00

This low key comedy delivers high quality chuckles (more than six which is a good rate) thanks to a tight, witty and topical script and terrific performances from lead actors Ed Helms, John C. Reilly, Anne Heche, Isiah Whitlock Jr and Stephen Root.

The film perfectly nails the good (the chance to stay in a fancy'ish hotel and see old friends); the bad (having to feign interest in presentations that are massaged to please the boss) and the downright ugly (spending 2.5 days with a few folks you'd usually cross the road to avoid) of corporate conferences and offsite gatherings.

For fans of The Wire (the greatest TV series of all time), Cedar Rapids is also worth viewing for two fantastic Wire-themed gags delivered by Isiah Whitlock Jr - better known as the show's creepiest and slimiest character - the super shady Senator Clay "Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeiiittttttttt" Davis.

Surviving (and Enjoying) Bangkok 2

2011-06-06T22:21:00.000-07:00

Sartorial offender - click here for more horrors.

Our first Surviving (and Enjoying) Bangkok list of travel tips was well read and received - here's part two for your enjoyment and edification.

1) Dress for success. Unless you want to be hassled by tuk tuk drivers and pushy street vendors across the capital avoid wearing any of the following - singlets (especially singlets with local beer logos), bandanas, floral shirts with matching floral shorts, hiking pants/boots, 3/4 pants, beachwear, camouflage pants, crocs, sandals and socks, his & hers matching outfits, football shirts (unless Man U or Liverpool), sarongs, flip flops and t-shirts/caps that advertise your country of origin.

2) And when not in use try to keep the cameras, video cameras, smart phones and fanny packs out of sight.

3) If you are here for business never schedule a meeting between 11.30 am - 1pm. Bangkok people are easygoing about many things but nothing comes between them and their lunch break - it's the same in Singapore.

4) Cold beers should only be enjoyed in bars or restaurants. Slugging a can or bottle of beer whilst walking through malls, markets, on the street and train stations is not a good look.

5) One of the fastest, safest and cheapest (3 baht) ways to navigate Thonglor Road is by the little red bus that zooms up and down the busy road. Hail it on the street and when you want to disembark - just pull the buzzer chain.

If you must drink in public - stick to Khao San Road.

6) In pubs and clubs, no need to order drinks from the bar - find a seat or table and wait for the bar staff to take your order and to serve the drinks.

7) If you're travelling on the Sky Train and miss the next station announcement in English don't panic - the Thai announcement will follow. Listen for "satani"(station in Thai) then the name of the station e.g. National Stadium Station is Satani National Stadium.

8) A rough guide to the iconic MBK mall - Floors 1-3 - mostly clothing shops; floor 4 - smart phones, software, iPads, cameras and other electronics; floor 5 - furniture; floor 6 - more clothing and the famous MBK food court.

9) If you must visit the Patpong Night Market be warned - after 10 pm many circling vulture "metre-off" cab drivers will ask for a flat fee of 100 baht.

10) Street side fruit vendors will often drop a small sachet, of what looks like orange crystals, in the fruit bag. Relax, it's not an attempted drugs sting - the sachet contains a zesty dipping condiment made from salt, sugar and chillies.

Watch your step.

11) Please leave a tip after dining. While most high end eateries will include a 10% service charge it's good form to leave a tip of between 20-50 baht after dining at street stalls or cheaper restaurants.

12) If you want to order a vegetarian meal ask for an "ahan jae" meal.

13) So it's 2pm and you want to buy a 6-pack of beer from the supermarket or 7 (local slang for 7-11) to enjoy in the afternoon. Tough luck - booze can only be purchased from 11 am - 2 pm and from 5 pm - 10 pm. However, it is ok to purchase a slab of beer (24 cans/bottles) at anytime - why the exception for a 24-pack? I have no idea.

14) How to call for the bill at a restaurant? Kep Tang khrup/kha (the polite way) or check bin khrup/kha.

15) Watch your step - really. If you don't take care, BKK's sidewalks can become boulevards of broken legs and ankles - watch out for holes; broken and uneven pavements; dog droppings; wet concrete and broken glass. In addition keep an eye out for wandering baby elephants (not so common these days), street vendors and massage salesmen.

If you have other ideas/suggestions to add please send it to us.

Chiang Mai Now!

2011-06-04T22:49:00.000-07:00

The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre (BACC) is one of the coolest (architectural, artistic and air con wise) places in the capital and worthy of frequent visits.

Now is as good a time as any because the current Chiang Mai Now! exhibition is terrific. Full of fresh, original, quirky, irreverent and cheeky works - including paintings, sculptures, photographs installations and more - the exhibition reinforces Chiang Mai's reputation as a regional creative hothouse.

I really liked the ice cream stand display by the DOCUMENTARY team as well as the installation from the Chiang Mai Sunday Cycling Club. Another fave was the John and Yoko inspired "Art Is Over" photograph.

The massive graffiti wall on the circular walkway to the 9th floor is also eye-catching and a backdrop favourite with many snap happy visitors.

More information about Chiang Mai Now! - the exhibition runs until June 19.
A link to Hern-Art one of my favourite artists in Chiang Mai.
If you've never been there - BACC is the impressive big white building opposite MBK.

Bunfight At The Chockchai Corral!

2011-06-01T16:55:00.000-07:00

Chockchai beef burger with everything.

A road trip to Khao Yai is not complete without a stop at the Farm Chockchai theme park (look out for the Big Cow) to devour a delicious burger or two at their famous burger stand.

Sure, it's a bit corny with employees dressed in cowboy and cowgirl outfits but who cares when the burgers are this good. The super fresh Chockchai meat patties are cooked to perfection - for my taste buds anyway - and are high quality, juicy, tender and slightly smokey.

Served in a wheat bun filled with tomatoes, lettuce and the Chockchai special sauce, it's an unbeatable combination. When the ingredients are this good, it's best to keep the order simple and for me, a pork or beef burger, served with an extra order of onions is hard to beat.

They also serve a pricy wagyu beef offering to satisfy high-end burger junkies. But pound for pound, the Chockchai beef or pork burger is one of the best value-for-money meat and bun offerings in the 150-200 baht price range.

Pork Burger with onions.

And good news for Bangkokians - there is now a Chockchai Burger stand in the Paragon Mall. It's located in the supermarket in the mall basement.

Also an honourable mention for the Dukes burger which gets a two-thumbs up rating from my pal Awi, who is a burger connoisseur.

And a dishonourable mention for the fish sandwich served at the Black Swan Pub. This 'back to basics' creation features a fried fish fillet in a fried bread roll with french fries - nothing else. Even mid-70s Elvis would have sent this heart stopper back to the kitchen.

For more information about other non Mickey D burger shops visit Bangkok Burger Blog - the author has really done the hard yards to find the best burger eats and treats in Bangkok.

RIP Gil

2011-05-28T06:50:00.000-07:00

RIP Gil - music legend, poet and a prophet.

Rest in peace Gil Scott-Heron.

I first heard GSH on Wellington's Radio Active student radio station and was blown away by his lyrical genius. He was on-point and to the point when he expressed his social, cultural and political observations/views.

He didn't need a 4,000 word feature article to deliver his key messages - a four minute track was more than enough to make a deep, meaningful and lasting connection. It helped that he had an amazing voice and that his music was groovy as hell.

I was lucky enough to see him perform at the Jazz Cafe in London in 1991. It's a bit of blur now - a lot of cheap red wine was consumed on the night - but I remember it being a celebration of sorts with plenty of people dancing and maybe, even a conga line.

Here's my favourite Gil track - B Movie - 12+ minutes of genius and still sounds fresh, relevant and vital today.

Guardian's GSH Obit

The Smoke House

2011-05-27T01:48:00.000-07:00

The Smoke House (SH)..... sounds like Snoop Dogg's dream hacienda.

The wine shop and dining area.

But if you're looking for THC-flavoured thrills, you're in the wrong place. Sausages and assorted meats - not ganja or skunk - are the only things smoked here.

Mind you, whoever proposed a Bavarian Castle inspired restaurant/deli/wine shop/bar/concert venue in the middle of the Khao Yai countryside was probably under the influence of a herbalicious substance or two.

Despite being at odds with the lush green surroundings, SH is magnificent and impressive and sure to attract thousands of visitors in the months ahead.

Porker's delight.

For the food? For the wine? For the sausages and smoked meats? Possibly. The wine and beer list is decent as is the food, especially the spicy pork neck salad and the famous SH sausages.

In my opinion however, the major plus points are the SH buildings (including a tower that houses a wine and beer bar) and its surrounding landscape. Both offer many super, picturesque backdrop options for photo-snapping family groups, university students and love birds.

Khun Somchai and Khun Fon no longer need to fly to Europe for their gothic castle snaps - they can now make an easy 220 kilometre drive from Bangkok!

SH is another new attraction in the Khao Yai district, which has changed dramatically since we visited two years ago. Here's hoping that development doesn't go into overdrive - Thailand's version of Napa Valley deserves better.

More information:

The Smoke House web site
Check out this amazing hotel in the area
Granmonte Vineyard

Soundtrack For The Weekend

2011-05-26T20:34:00.000-07:00

First up, from Canadians CFCF, a beautiful shimmering New Order-ish take of OMC's "How Bizzare."

CFCF - How Bizzare

Followed by The Yoots, who deliver a brilliant, last-train-to-Skaville version of "Me He Manu Rere," a Maori classic played at all good weddings and parties across New Zealand.

Sing along now.. don't be shy..
Me he manu rere ahau e,
Kua rere ki tō moenga,
Ki te awhi tō tinana,
Aue, aue!
E te tau, tahuri mai.
Kei te moe te tinana,
Kei te oho te wairua,
Kei te hotu te manawa,
Aue, aue!
E te tau, tahuri mai.

The Yoots - Me He Manu Rere

And "Banana Ripple from Junior Boys. The title alone makes it the summer anthem of the year. Turn it right up to enjoy its full flavour and deliciousness.

Junior Boys - Banana Ripple

Oh Happy Day!

2011-05-24T17:51:00.000-07:00

Pedalicious - Dee-Lovely and Delicious

2011-05-22T05:47:00.000-07:00

Our quest to find quirky and original restaurants in BK's quieter streets led us to Pedalicious - a cycling/bike shop themed cafe in Ekamai Soi 12.

There is so much to like about Pedalicious - super friendly staff who treat you like friends and a cool, creative interior that features industrial styled furniture and a long table with a bike parked on top (yeah you read right). It's all about effortless cool and Pedalicious wouldn't be out of place in Harajuku or Nakameguro.

On Yer Bike

And the grub? It was perfect for our family group ranging in age from 4 to 70+. My niece and I fought over the mashed potato which was the best I've ever eaten in Bangkok. This wasn't the usual bland, flavourless mush served at other establishments - their mash was creamy, buttery and well seasoned.

Other highlights included the smokey BBQ'ed corn on the cob and chicken wings with BBQ sauce and caramalised onions. We also liked the spaghetti and its robust meat sauce and a vegetarian fried rice served with apples and raw vegetables.

We'll be back and thanks again to the terrific staff for their kindness and hospitality .. and for putting up with the three wee monkeys at our table.

Pedalicious FB
Pedalicious review CNNGO

Translation - drinking is not a healthy hobby, but if you must, be a generous drinker
and ensure everyone is taken care of.

Teacup and Chopsticks

2011-05-19T04:52:00.000-07:00

You get the best of all worlds at Teacup and Chopsticks (T&C) - east and west, modern and traditional, town and country, and sweet, sour, savoury and spicy flavours. Set in a garden compound, T&C offers something fresh, new and unique to the Bangkok dining scene - a delicious noodle shop on one side and a stylish cafe next door.

Given its quiet street location in the outer suburbs, you can sit outside to slurp and savour a good selection of noodle dishes. You may hear the odd crowing rooster and be joined by a wandering dog or goose. After a night on the tiles, it's quite therapeutic for both mind and body.

As with all great noodle shops, everything centres on the broth and T&Cs' is the business - fragrant, herby, well seasoned and well balanced. In addition, their secret recipe nam som prik tam condiment is incredible and a bit of fire starter.

To counter the heat and spice, check out the T&C deserts and cakes next door. They look great, and taste even better. White chocolate cheesecake, mango cheese pie, cheese pie icecream cake, cupcakes, banana yoghurt cake, tiramisu, Oreo cheesecake, waffles and strawberries and cream... postpone the annual medical for another month.

But don't delay a visit - I'll let the photos do the convincing.

Teacup & Chopsticks

Soi Ladprao-Wanghin 48, Ladprao-Wanghin Road, Ladprao, Bangkok

Tel: 080-57-67008

Map

White chocolate cheesecake

Ice cream pie

Tiramisu

Beef brisket and beef ball noodles

Happiness is a warm bowl of flavoursome noodles.

Tender beef noodles sans the fire starting nam som prik tam

Take a load off...

... and make yourself at home

Rio

2011-05-16T07:53:00.000-07:00

Tiger Woods was well cast as Fernando, the favela bad boy who broke good.

The youngest member of the house enjoyed her maiden voyage to the cinema though popcorn and the theatre's large comfy seats, held way more interest for her than the main attraction.

As for me, an animated film non-believer (besides Cloudy With The Chance Of Meatballs), I enjoyed Rio a lot. It was pretty funny and Tracy Morgan's Luiz bulldog character stole the show. The music was also great and the graphics were amazing.

Rio was also our first family 3D movie experience and it got a 'blah' rating from us - the glasses kept falling off the small one's face and the colours seemed dulled to me - so Mark Kermode we're with you - 3D is a crock.

Hammered!!

2011-05-15T19:20:00.000-07:00

Thanks Scott for a great season - good luck with your new club.

So my beloved West Ham are exiting the penthouse heading for the outhouse. Strange fields and stadiums here we come! Given the club's recent history of mis-management, bad signings and financial and legal battles, relegation was always on the cards.

Here's hoping that the Irons will re-build and re-boot in the Championship and move on up in the future. I'll have a quiet beer tonight and share a virtual commiseration toast with my West Ham mad mates, the Bromley brothers in East London.

The Guardian's Jacob Steinberg on West Ham's catalogue of own goals and misdemeanors

Once In A Lifetime: The Extraordinary Story Of The New York Cosmos

2011-05-15T18:08:00.000-07:00

Pele and Chinaglia enemies on and off the pitch.

Like moths to flames, footballers and hedonism are drawn to each other and the New York Cosmos soccer team of the late 70s and early 80s, played and partied hard - well hard.

I guess it's only natural when your home ground is the 80,000 capacity Giants Stadium and the team's post-match "recovery" sessions took place at the legendary Studio 54 nightclub.

The rapid rise and fall of the Cosmos is documented superbly in the "Once In A Lifetime: The Extraordinary Story Of The New York Cosmos" film. It's highly recommended for football fans as well as folks who love New York, especially New York in the 70s.

The Cosmos story has everything - heroes, villains (Giorgio Chinaglia), winners, losers, dreamers, realists, the greedy, the good and disco beats. It also involved anyone, who was anyone, in the US in the 70s - Ahmet and Ertegun Nesuhi, Henry Kissinger, Steve Ross and a host of Warner Brother Communications head honchos and lawyers.

For me, I loved how a bunch of journeymen footballers became team mates (almost overnight) with the greatest player on earth, Pele. And I laughed when Pele complained that his new team mates passed the ball to him too much!

Whoever you choose to believe, Pele signed a 5-year deal (including endorsement and PR rights) for close to US $5 million. By comparison, baseball legend, Hank Aaron was earning US $200,000 per year during the same period.

Another highlight was a shoot out goal scored by Carlos Alberto. It is one of the coolest (in all senses of the word) goals you will ever see.

In recent months, the Cosmos franchise has been resurrected with Eric "Seagull" Cantona named as the team's director of sport. It seems football fans in New York and around the world are in for another rocking good time and I can't wait to see the team back on the pitch.

IMDb movie information

A good story from the New York Times about the new gold Cosmos dream

Tablets For Kids!

2011-05-14T19:24:00.000-07:00

Here's a link to an article I wrote and submitted to Social Media New Zealand on a frankly, outrageous pre-election "tablet computer for Thai kids"proposal suggested by a local politician to woo voters.

Sweet Tablets Or Poisonous Political Pills?

Best Sports Bars in Bangkok

2011-05-14T01:57:00.000-07:00

Soi 8 Pub - a top spot, but would be even better without the cigarette smokers.

My name is Stephen and I am a rugby tragic.. I blame my father and uncles. Given this addiction or affliction I try to catch the big All Black tests on TV, which means visits to a few of Bangkok's sports bars, and here are some of my regulars.

Phom Phrong Station area

Robin Hood - English themed pub

Goals For: Located next to the skytrain station, roomy, clean, lots of TVs, good selection of food and drinks, good service and attracts a mix of expats, locals and visitors - last year, I sat a table away from former All Black, Byron Kelleher, who wolfed down three meals (very healthy ones) for lunch.

Goals Against: Get's very crowded for big, big games.

Tenderloins - Upmarket sports bar

Goals For: Modern, clean, spacious, lots of TVs, good sight-lines, good nosh and a good atmosphere. Last year we enjoyed a great night out with German friends watching Germany destroy England in the football world cup. Some times it's good to be a neutral in the crowd.

Goals Against: As the kitchen is always busy and close to the bar area, I've often left the bar smelling like a well-done ribeye steak or double-fried french fry.

Ex-All Black Byron Kelleher enjoyed his food at the Robin Hood Pub

Wall Street Bar and Grill - Offers the "authentic rugby club room" experience

Goals For: Shows every rugby match being played anywhere around the world, friendly bar staff and pretty reasonable drink prices. I also once saw All Black legend, Wayne 'Buck' Shelford in the bar.

Goals Against: Attracts a pretty crusty crowd and the bar overall is a bit "frayed around the edges."

The Office - A Hard Rock Cafe sort of inspired sports bar

Goals For: Big, lots of screens, serves the best chicken pie that I've ever eaten in Bangkok, and clean and tidy.

Goals Against: Smoking (the cigarette kind) is tolerated here - a major turn off for me. Also a bit pricy.

George Best - the Pickled Liver's patron saint

Londoner - Massive English themed Pub

Goals For: A favourite with my brother-in-law, spacious, lots of screens, great food (Tuesday is two meals for the price of one night), a good atmosphere and excellent pilsner and dark ale brewed in-house.

Goals Against: Can get mighty crowded.

Asoke Station Area

Bradmans - As the name suggests, an Aussie-themed bar

Goals For: All-round top bar for sport watching and beer drinking. Big range of well cooked food, including an interesting and tasty falafel spaghetti and host/owner Thomas is a bloody good bloke.

Goals Against: Nothing really.

Nana Station Area

Spotted at Wall Street - Wayne 'Buck' Shelford.

Soi 8 - A Kiwi-themed pub

Goals For: Soi 8, in its own unpretentious, hassle-free way, is a good all-rounder and a personal favourite of mine. Also stays open for the 3am rugby test matches played in France.

Goals Against: Smoking is also tolerated here.

The Australian

Goals For: Swanky (compared to the others anyway), big, brash and well-designed pub. Attracts a pretty diverse group of punters and has a good party atmosphere.

Goals Against: Food and drink a little on the pricy side - but then again, this is Soi 11.

Manchester United Pub

Absolutely no redeeming features or qualities. With thousands of bars in the capital, it puzzles me why anyone would want to drink here?

The Pickled Liver

Goals For: A cosy and colourful little boozer that is a good spot to watch football. Their George Best t-shirts are also worth buying.

Goals Against: Not easy to find - it's located in the sub-soi on Soi 11.

Audio Sunshine

2011-05-10T05:04:00.000-07:00

Wainui Beach

Been drawn to a lot of African and Latin-flavoured music of late and recently discovered the Whiskey Barons - a pair of DJs/producers based in Boston - who make amazing mixes that sure hit the spot with me.

Click here for 51.52 minutes of audio sunshine.
Whiskey Barons website

I'm In A Sad Mood Tonight

2011-05-09T06:01:00.000-07:00

Our thoughts and prayers are with our dear and close friends, Mark and Caroline and Hannah. Big love and aroha from Bangkok.

Rest in peace Emily

John Coltrane - In Sentimental Mood

Cover Stars pt3 - Elvisly Yours

2011-05-06T19:51:00.000-07:00

I'm a passionate Elvis fan (both kinds - Presley and Costello) and own many of their classic albums as well as their respective "odds and sods" recordings.

Besides sharing a first name, both are/were skilled and respectful interpreters of other people's songs.

A few years back, Elvis C released a great covers album called Kojak Variety that included a superb version of "Days" by the Kinks and Dan Baker's "Pouring Water on a Drowning Man" and more.

Equally good - to my ears - was Costello's country covers album, Almost Blue, which was universally slagged off when it was released. And his blistering take (with The Attractions) of Nick Lowe's "What's So Funny Bout' Peace, Love and Understanding" always gets my pulse racing.

Seems Elvis C's songs are popular with a bunch of other artists and some excellent covers are highlighted on the terrific Cover Lay Down website.

Visit Covered in Folk: Elvis Costello to enjoy Costello covered by the very cool and classy Laura Cantrell and a host of others. I especially like Mae Robertson's smokey, jazzy Almost Blue.

Tonkatsu Katsushin

2011-05-04T16:48:00.000-07:00

Pork perfection.

Tonkatsu and jazz… two of my favourite things….and both feature prominently at Tonkatsu Katsushin (TK). Tucked away in small soi off Surawong and flanked by massage parlours and small seedy bars, TK is a bit of a “diamond in the rough” restaurant (the area is not that rough to be honest).

But don’t fret about the neighbourhood, the cosy inn-styled TK is all about awesome food and jazz music (no Kenny G).

The TK chefs prepare, cook and serve (possibly) the best tonkatsu in Bangkok - light and crispy on the outside, juicy and delicious on the inside. In my opinion, the best food is always the simplest.

Other must-order eats include a pepper crusted raw tuna dish, lotus root chips, refreshing japanese salads and a big selection of snacks including bbq'ed chicken gizzards and other goodies.

Raw tuna never tasted so good

In a city jammed with japanese eateries how good is TK? Based on our dining experiences – pretty damned good - a top choice for super Japanese food at wallet friendly prices.

Looking for another good indicator? It's always busy and seems a popular joint in particular, for japanese salarymen and their gigs (also known as giks or kiks).

For readers who don't live in Thailand, gig is the local slang term for "bit on the side."

And according to my colleague, who is an expert on these matters, there are varying degrees of gig-ness from part-time lovers to full-on relationships. And having a gig or two is not just a male thing, women are equal players in the gig game.

TK is located in Soi Tantawan (Soi 6) off Surawong Road. It's open for lunch and dinner but is closed on Sunday. Tel. 0-2237-3073.

Read the BK Post review

Phet Lover - Tom Parker Bowles in Bangkok

2011-04-30T01:33:00.000-07:00

Good piece on Bangkok street food.. or one man's quest for fire and spice ... from Tom Parker Bowles (TPB) in the latest GQ magazine.

TPB (his mum is Camila and his step-dad is Prince Charles) did the "hard yards" in the culinary sense and top marks to him for trying many dishes, and visiting all types of eateries and restaurants across town.

This is a great primer for food lovers heading to Thailand for the first time.

Only one small error however -Bintang is the most popular beer in Indonesia not Thailand. Here it's a slug out between Beer Chang and Singha.

In the Heat of the Night

Public Service Announcement

2011-04-29T05:36:00.000-07:00

Not much good stuff comes for free these days but here's something that is.

This Kid Cudi curated soundtrack to new'ish HBO series, "How To Make It In America" is brilliant and a tonic for jaded iTunes playlists.

I love the Duck Sauce, Yacht, Chromeo and Wave Machine tracks - but they are all pretty excellent especially if taken in one listen. I challenge you to stay still.

The series is also also good - maybe the topic of another post - the absolute star of the show is New York City. As a colleague once told me in a NYC bar (that was once a hair salon) ...."New York City - motherfucking centre of the universe"....

Thanks to cuz Robert for this recommendation.

Download (free and legally) the soundtrack

Pla Dib

2011-04-25T04:09:00.000-07:00

Good times and eats guaranteed.

Memo to Tourism Thailand, your next "Amazing Thailand" promo/campaign should include Pla Dib restaurant.

This Ari dining gem is one of our most loved and frequently visited eateries in BKK. A place we bring many of our overseas visitors - as we did on Friday - with good friends from Singapore.

Over the past couple of years we've also shared fantastic meals with other visiting food lovers including the hungry Samoan, close pals from Indonesia and the Netherlands and family members from New Zealand. Pla Dib has never failed to deliver a memorable and special night.

We love its stripped back, industrial-styled decor and laid back charm.

Most of all... we dig the food.

The incredible seafood ceviche.

While I loathe the "fusion" tag, Pla Dib does fusion superbly, better than any "modern Asian" eatery that we've ever been to. Rather than mixing recipes and ideas to shock or show off, the Pla Dib chefs subtly blend predominantly Japanese and Thai flavours and ingredients to produce interesting, original and most importantly, bloody delicious food.

Regular orders include the seafood ceviche - cubed salmon, tuna, prawns and octopus topped with a Japanese dressing; goyza; salmon laab, soft shell crab salad, beef salad and the blowtorch salmon sushi. Other notable dishes include a perfectly cooked duck confit, crispy wood fired pizza and more.

Pla Dib also boasts a pretty diverse drinks list with a good selection of wine and beer (Stella and Hoegaarden on tap).

Music is a final ingredient that takes Pla Dib into our BKK restaurant hall of fame - specifically, the in-house DJs who provide an awesome mix of soul, reggae, dub, funk, jazz and mellow electronica sounds. A great change from the endless bossa nova endured at other trendy BKK eating and drinking establishments.

Bookings are are must - Pla Dib Facebook page

Trillion Dollar Bill

2011-04-23T04:36:00.000-07:00

20 words to describe Bill Withers - soulful, wise, funky, smart, loving, proud, humble, honest (brutally honest), inspirational, profound, funny, generous, poetic, kind, loyal, thoughtful, perfectionist, independent, articulate and compassionate.

Even if you're not familiar with his amazing music, the 2009 "Still Bill" documentary on Withers' life, songs, family, friends, struggles and achievements is worth seeking out. He is a superhuman super human and the author of "Lean On Me," one of my all-time favourite songs.. I even like Club Nouveau's version.

NYT's Still Bill review

In Praise of the Bluff Oyster

2011-04-21T04:31:00.000-07:00

Bluff Oysters - a gastronomic wonder of the world

Back in the Big Mango now after 2.5 weeks of eating, drinking and driving... not at the same time... across the eastern and central parts of New Zealand's (NZ) North Island.

Besides magnificent feasts cooked by family and friends, we visited some super eateries. In Gisborne (my home town), the Soho bar in the wharf area serves a very decent lunch, especially the $25 set that includes a starter, a delicious fish main and a glass of wine or beer. A good value feed indeed. Cafe 1874 in the Poverty Bay Club in town is a terrific spot for coffee and the Provence flavoured Matawhero Vineyard is perfect for an afternoon wine or 3.

Matawhero - one of my fave wineries in Gisborne

200 kilometres south in Napier we stayed a night at the very comfortable and well located Mission B&B in Taradale. Host, Robert Simon is a national treasure and should be engaged by Tourism NZ to run hospitality courses. He is a raconteur (in English and Cantonese), wine and music buff and a top chef. He cooks a mean and generous breakfast that sees you right for the day.

His B&B is a stone's throw from the regal Mission Estate - NZ's oldest vineyard - equally famous for its wines and annual summer concerts. The restored seminary building at the vineyard houses a fine restaurant.

As an on-the-road treat we ordered the in-season Bluff oysters. While many food bores rave on about truffles, foie gras and caviar etc.. in my opinion, the sweet, succulent 'Bluffy' lords it over these traditional posh nosh pretenders.

Raw or battered and deep fried, the Bluff oyster is food of the gods. Equally good were our John Dory and fish and chip orders.

TSG's Salmon and green bean hummus dip

For the best Cantonese food in Auckland, head to the jam-packed Sun World restaurant in Newmarket. Their steamed cod, stir fried string beans and olives and salt baked chicken were some of the standouts. The meal reconfirmed my view that eating Chinese or Asian offers the best value for money dining in NZ.

And a final mention about the new and impressive Tyler Street Garage (TSG) restaurant in the revamped downtown area.

While the the TSG food and rooftop space is really good - the service was, to put it politely, variable. We copped some serious 'attitude' from the downstairs wait staff who deemed us unworthy to dine upstairs. Luckily for us, their rooftop colleagues were super helpful and friendly.

And whinge #2 - As they arrived 5 minutes before TSG's 11.30am opening time, my mum and gran were told to wait outside by staff. Come on TSG managers! Would you do the same to your respective mums and grans.. very, very poor form.

Representing Memphis

2011-04-20T05:25:00.000-07:00

How sweet is this??? Talk about a life of surprises.....

On this beaut new Booker T track, Sharon Jones and Matt Berninger, (The National) sound like they've been singing partners for decades. This is from Booker T's new album, "The Road From Memphis" that also includes contributions/assists from Lou Reed and The Roots and more.

One to very much look out for. And when it comes to songs that mention cities and towns, no writes or performs them as well as American artists.

Booker T. Jones - Representing Memphis (featuring Sharon Jones and Matt Berninger)
More about the album

The City I Live In, The City of Angels

2011-04-08T21:52:00.000-07:00

"Bangkok City", the newest track from K-Pop sensations, Orange Caramel. Lightweight pop sure, but a way better song than the other ancient and awful "inter" song with Bangkok in the title.

A Tale Of Two Markets

2011-04-08T02:41:00.000-07:00

Back in the the motherland (New Zealand) to reunite with family and friends and enjoy NZ's many, many charms. In Auckland last weekend we visited a couple of food markets that reflect the city's diversity.

Saturday night saw us at the Pakuranga Night Market (PNM). A relatively recent introduction, PNM attracted a pretty decent crowd with most heading to the food vendors lining one side of the market. Asian cuisine was well represented with Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese (northern and southern), Indian, Japanese, Malaysian, Indonesian, Singaporean, Pinoy and Korean dishes offered. While they varied in quality, it was great to see the variety of food available enjoyed by people of all nationalities. Oddly, the the stall with the longest line was the New York hotdog stand!

PNM's biggest downside is its ground floor car park location which has as much charm and appeal as a public toilet. But credit to the organisers for providing a new night out option for South Aucklanders.

Clevedon... easy like Sunday morning.

The next morning, we got up early to drive to the Clevedon Village Farmer's Market (CVFM). While only a few kilometres from Pakuranga, CVFM was a million miles apart in terms of market goers, prices, food and produce on sale, and venue. The scenic country barn and farm setting was filled to the brim with many "Chelsea Tractor" driving "Queen Street Farmers" (rich city folks enjoying a bit of country) and their families and friends.

While PNM was all about sushi, shao lung bao, green curry, pho, chop suey, char kway teow and bugulgi, CVFM was paella, bratwurst, baklava, wild salmon, aged beef and lamb, organic vege, cornish pasties, gourmet pies, crepes, salamis, jams, preserves, chutneys, cheeses and more. High-end food at medium to premium prices. But, if you are in the neighbourhood, feeling hungry rather than hungover, and an early Sunday riser, CVFM is well worth a visit.

Links
Pakuranga Night Market
Clevedon Village Farmer's Market

Le Pla Daak

2011-03-30T07:22:00.000-07:00

Le Pla Daak is one of our all-time favourite eateries in Bangkok - a consistent 6-star performer on all levels - inventive and delicious Isan dishes blended with
gallic flavours and touches, terrific atmosphere, retro decorations, radios - lots of radios, music to sing along to and super service.

We invited our friends, Brigid and Simon, to get a taste of the Le Pla Daak experience on Sunday, and Brigid wrote a super report about the meal, and the restaurant, and snapped some brilliant shots.

Click here to read and drool.
Le Pla Daak Facebook

C'est Bon Chicken - a personal fave

As they say in Singapore.. 'die, die, must try' - Gung Foy Tod - deep fried baby shrimp - great with ice cold beer.

"As Happy As Jesus In the Barn"

2011-03-28T17:20:00.000-07:00

Heartlands is probably the mildest road movie ever made. But don't let that description put you off this little cinematic treat. What I thought would be a "light and easy" Sunday night watch turned out to be a bit better than expected.

Plot-wise it's straightforward, extra mild-mannered Colin (Michael Sheen) heads out on his scooter - with 12 packets of crisps and his darts - across the beautiful Peak District to Blackpool try win back Sandra, his wife who has run off with the local copper.

Along the way he meets a host of characters who show him a) a life beyond his daily grind and b) the importance, of occasionally, looking after number one.

If you are a fan of understated, scarcasm-heavy humour from the north of England, this is a film for you. It's also beautifully shot and any movie that features Wreckless Eric's classic "Whole Wide World" has a lot going for it in my book.

Made in 2002, this film was a bit of a launch pad for many actors who are now major stars including Ruth Jones, James Corden and Mark Strong who has an excellent cameo. Other notable feature, Michael Sheen as Colin sports one of the worst haircuts in cinema history.

Rotten Tomatoe Reviews

Small Wins For The Heart

2011-03-26T08:42:00.000-07:00

I grew up in a house full of gifted storytellers loving all the yarns - ripping - and otherwise, told by my mother, father and grandfather about their lives in China and when they first arrived in New Zealand. My mother's brothers and their friends were equally brilliant.

Today, in the age of power-pointless presentations, twitter and device-to-device communication, the fine art of story telling seems a bit old fashioned and on borrowed time.

I hope it isn't and why I was chuffed to recently come across the Vinyl Cafe podcast hosted by Stuart McLean, a Canadian with an amazing voice and vocal style tailor made for fireside tales.

His show mixes music, real life stories sent in by listeners and a fictional series based around record store owner Dave and his family and friends. The stories celebrate what many perceive to be the unimportant or minor, but these small wins for the heart really connect and resonate - well they do for me.

Another podcast filled with real life experiences is "This American Life" hosted by Ira Glass. In a recent episode I learned about the amazing lengths Iranians go to, to avoid saying no. As part of the taaroof custom or tradition, Iranians say no when they mean yes and vice-versa to different degrees. From experience, Asians and Polynesians often do this as well - but not as fanatically.

Make these two regular listens - your brain and heart will thank you.

Vinyl Cafe

This American Life

It's Friday.. time to PARLAAAAAAANNNNNCCCCCCEEEE!!!!!

2011-03-25T08:06:00.000-07:00

Another bad Friday .. have to stop making a habit of this ... thank buddha for JW & Blaze. Tonight I'll be mostly drinking lime soda with a dash of vodka.

Thailand Rak Facebook

2011-03-23T08:48:00.000-07:00

Here's a link to a piece that I wrote for Social Media New Zealand about the rise and rise and rise of Facebook in Thailand. Thanks to Charles for the hook-up.

Thailand's Big Year For Facebook

Italian Proudfa

2011-03-20T03:29:00.000-07:00

Possibly the best lamb chops in town.

Bangkokians like to indulge little games of one-upmanship when it comes to discovering/knowing about eateries that offer the biggest bang for the buck (I'm talking about flavour and quality rather than spice and heat).

Coming from New Zealand - one of the most expensive dining countries in the world - mostly everything to me, food-wise, is reasonably priced and great value in the capital.

There's something for everyone and good eats can cost as little as 20 baht (for a bowl of noodles) or as much as 3,000+ baht for US prime rib at a swanky steak house.

Mussels in arrabbiata sauce

So when I come across a restaurant that serves amazing food at very affordable prices I have to share the love - it's a civic duty.

Take a bow Khun Toh, who manages Italian Proudfa, a cosy and cool tratorria-styled eatery that serves superb Italian food with a Thai twist.

We enjoyed mussels arrabbiata and a squid and prawn crammed black spaghetti (both priced around 220 baht); crab salad (220 baht); a plate of wonderfully cooked pepper lamb chops (550 baht) and a foie gras salad (550 baht). The menu features more pasta, fish, seafood and meat dishes.

The host with the most.

The orders - especially the ones with a bit of heat and kick - were sensational. They were on par, or a cut above similar dishes served in upmarket Italian restaurants in the Sukhumvit and Silom areas.

Khun Toh is also a fantastic host who welcomes you like a member of the family. He may well be the most charismatic, charming and friendly maitre d in Thailand.

Do yourself a favour and make the effort to visit Italian Proudfa. In light traffic it's only 10-15 minutes drive up from Ekamai on Sriwara Road.

Italian Proudfa Facebook

Italian Proudfa location map and contact details

Thien Duong

2011-03-18T21:07:00.000-07:00

Happy birthday Khun Yai

It was my mother-in-law's birthday yesterday - happy birthday Khun Mae Nongyao!

Every year, we celebrate at one of her favourite restaurants, the Thien Duong Vietnamese restaurant in Bangkok's landmark Dusit Thani Hotel.

Last night, as usual, beautifully cooked and presented food was enjoyed by the very young, young, middle-aged and senior members of my Bangkok family.

All the dishes were super tasty and personal favourites included Bahn Cuon (rice flour crepes) and the grilled lemongrass chicken and spare ribs - the ribs were the real deal, full of meat and flavour. For an upmarket Vietnamese dining experience in BKK, Thien Duong is pretty hard to beat.

Besides the delicious food, I like wandering around the Dusit because she's an elegant beauty with character and history (past and present). Around this time last year, the hotel was riddled with more than a few bullets during the protests in the capital.

It's also a popular venue for weddings and corporate events. If you enjoy cheap thrills - with a smart suit and a nice smile - you could possibly gatecrash a party or two.

One of my favourite Dusit attractions is a wall of photos featuring famous guests over the years including snaps of Ronnie Reagan and Maggie Thatcher (no they weren't staying together), Dionne Warwick, the Pet Shop Boys, various Miss Worlds and Universes, Andy Roddick and many other A, B, C and D-listers.

Friday

2011-03-18T08:18:00.000-07:00

It was a hell week in the orifice and Friday night was embraced like a long lost old friend.

This track nails the spirit of Friday night - though it'll probably mean more to a Kiwi-munter like me than others.

It takes me back to Friday nights in Auckland spent drinking, record shopping, playing football, band watching, swimming, BBQing, sitting on porches talking crap, driving around going nowhere, midnight runs to the video shop, burning toast and amazing shabbat dinners when my pal Jas would invite me over to his family's house.

I don't know anything about these guys but they deal with the real and blend humour and hip hop superbly - thanks to Nick Bollinger and his great Sampler show on Radio New Zealand for bringing Home Brew into my life. Happy Friday, mine's a Beerlao Dark.

Home Brew - Friday

Home Brew profiled

Tao Hong Tai Ceramics Factory

2011-03-17T08:49:00.000-07:00

I was put off ceramics for life after a trip to China more than 20 years ago. Every tour on that visit seemed to end up at a ceramics shop (or factory) full of stuff I had no interest in buying - hence my indifference.

Last weekend however, my attitude was adjusted thanks to a visit to the Tao Hong Tai ceramics factory in Ratchaburi district about 120 kilometres south of Bangkok.

Managed and run by a family of famous ceramicists, the factory is set in a garden filled with cool, kooky and colourful ceramic objects of all shapes and sizes. We especially liked the piglet tables and bright mini-pagodas. There were also many traditional items such as large water jars decorated with quirky features and touches.

To keep things fresh and exciting, artists from other parts of Thailand are regularly invited as in-residence artists to learn new skills and showcase their talents.

Given the quality of the objects for sale, they are very reasonably priced and if you spend more than 6,000 baht they will deliver to your home in Bangkok free of charge.

We really wanted to visit their new, and award-winning, Tao Hong Tai: d Kunst gallery down the road but ran out of time and now have an excuse for a return visit soon. But we'll have to find a pickup truck somewhere as there are plenty of great pieces that we'd like to bring back.

A visit to the factory and gallery is a great way to break up the fairly boring drive to Cha Am or Hua Hin beach. The surrounding town also has a nice laid back charm and we look forward to returning soon.

Here is a good Bangkok Post article about the new gallery and the factory.

Cover Stars pt2 - Spoek Mathambo

2011-03-14T05:59:00.000-07:00

A "darkwave township house" version of Joy Division's "She's Lost Control." If JD were still together today I reckon they'd probaby sound like this. This is an absolute monster.

Spoek Mathambo - Control

Last Night We Were All Hippies

2011-03-12T23:39:00.000-08:00

Compared to the "combat rock" mindset adopted by many young gig goers in the west, their Thai counterparts are on the whole, way more relaxed and mellow.*

This was certainly the case at the Summer Hippie concert held on Cha Am Beach (about 200 kilometres south of Bangkok) last night. Mind you, the combination of a beautiful night sky, a cool Gulf of Thailand sea breeze and shiny, happy Thai pop music is pretty hard to rage against.

Besides these factors it was a terrifically enjoyable night out thanks to the brilliant concert setup. Having been to more than a few gigs in my time - mostly in New Zealand and the UK - it was an interesting and a pleasant change to attend a concert where there were:

Plenty of high quality food and drink options at affordable prices
Plenty of vendors on hand to ensure no long queues for food and drinks
Plenty of punter-friendly attractions including a foot massage section and a too-cool smoker's area
No fights among "overly refreshed" punters
No drugs (I didn't see or smell the usual party drugs but I am very out of touch on these matters)
Gig goers of all ages
Really well dressed gig goers
Great sight lines and a well balanced sound system

What about the performers? All of the acts put on good shows playing upbeat tunes that added to the carnival atmosphere. Rule of thumb - a horn section always adds so much in an outdoor live concert setting.

Bottom Blue, who were led by a charismatic and energetic frontman, was one band that caught my eye. Their faster numbers were great combining doo wop, ska and rock - an unlikely combo sure - but like som tam salad, their all-in-the-mix approach worked well, and more importantly, got many punters up dancing.

I'll have to investigate more of their music. We missed the headline act, Modern Dog, but they apparently played to a very full house.

*It's not all peace and love. A few weeks back, a few hundred fans of the Deftones staged a mini rampage outside a Bangkok venue when the inept and incompetent concert promoter cancelled the gig at the very last minute.

Cover Stars ... sort of ...

2011-03-11T04:01:00.000-08:00

Not a cover, rather the Beach Boys singing "In My Room" in German. Moral of the story or exercise? A great song is a great song no matter what the language.

Beach Boys - Ganz Allein (In My Room)

Love, laughter and truth

2011-03-06T01:20:00.000-08:00

"Play from the heart" is what the late, and phenomenally great, comedian Bill Hicks did in spades. Just watched the documentary on his life, "American: The Bill Hicks Story" and found it inspiring and informative.

After watching, you get the feeling he was so extravagantly gifted he could have also made it in music, football (the American kind) or as a writer.

Besides fantastic live footage of his well-known performances, the doco is made extra watch'able due to the film's slide-show format mixing animated scenes and interviews with his family and close friends.

Through these he comes across as someone who would be an ideal best mate - a guy who was loyal, sharp, always stuck to his guns and embraced the good, the bad, and the ugly of life.

He loved "kicking against the pricks" and in this regard is on par with other ultra-smart, articulate and on-the-money prick kickers such as Gil Scott Heron and cartoonist, Harvey Pekar.

His opinions and thoughts on a host of social and political issues remain as relevant and timely today - R.I.P Bill - you are missed more than ever.

AMERICAN: The Bill Hicks Story

Saturday Night Begins Here

2011-03-05T06:01:00.000-08:00

This is the sound of the weekend - one of my favourite contemporary soul singers, Mayer Hawthorne, remixed by Classixx, a pair of LA-based DJs who have impeccable taste and are absolute masters of their craft - please come back to Bangkok soon and please bring Mr Hawthorne with you.

Green Eyed Love - Mayer Hawthorne (Classixx remix)

(Shopping) Mission To Burma

2011-03-04T19:37:00.000-08:00

Never mind the Junta!

Just as Singapore has Jahor Bahru (JB) as an over-the-border cheap shopping destination, we have Tachileik (a border town in Myanmar). Unlike JB however, Tachileik is hard to reach involving a major road trip to Mae-Sae, the northern-most city in Thailand.

Colourful border towns such as JB and Tachileik have always interested me, so we were right on board when Chiang Mai-based friends recently offered to drive us there. The journey via Chiang Rai to Mae-Sae is fantastic taking in plenty of scenic spots and sleepy one-horse towns where little has changed in the last 60 years (and the better for it).

At Mae-Sae I was able to get an entry visa (sans passport) from the Thai immigration office (200 baht) and another from their Burmese counterparts for 500 baht. Once paid and stamped up, I sauntered over the Thai-Burma bridge to Tachileik.

I was immediately greeted by six enthusiastic gents peddling an appealing combo of fake viagra and cheap cigarettes. The offers were politely declined and we moved on. Further along, we saw the main attraction for tourists - a huge real life "pirate bay" with loads of stalls selling fake goods at low prices - dirty deeds done dirt cheap indeed.

Being the music and film nut that I am I made a beeline to one of the mega DVD and music shops and was blown away by the selection and prices - US$ 1 for a blue ray disc and 60 cents for a DVD or CD. I brought the Wire box set (20 discs) for US$ 20. Yes, the discs work, and yes, quality is high. Amazing music box sets were also on sale from the Beatles to the Stones to a host of Jazz greats.

Like the Warehouse in New Zealand, there was something for everyone - branded sunglasses, jeans, watches, track suits, toys, handbags, shirts, software and more - I could have spent hours there shopping and observing.

Although it's not a must-visit destination, if you are in northern Thailand and have a free day I'd recommend a trip to Tachiliek if only to say that you have shopped at one of the most interesting, and probably politically suspect markets in the world.

What's the most played track on your iPod?

2011-03-03T06:08:00.000-08:00

Cheers Tel!

I discovered this gem by Terry Callier just after our daughter was born so it's a track that always puts a smile on my face and brings back great memories.

Terrific lyrics, "may trouble neglect you, and sunlight reflect you, may heaven protect you and turn you to love..."

Pretty hard to beat and bears up to repeated plays - 38 times so far in my case.

Terry Callier - Turn You To Love

Sushizanmai

2011-02-26T19:14:00.000-08:00

Even if the ingredients, recipes, and cooking techniques are the same, why does ethnic food always taste better in its home country? For example, pizza and pasta in Italy, dim sum in Hong Kong and sashimi and sushi in Japan.

Is the mind is the biggest taste bud of all? Whether it's mind over matter I don't know - what I do know is that the food served at Sushizanmai (we went to the Yurakucho branch in central Tokyo) is bloody marvelous, moreish and highly recommended.

Thanks to faultless ordering by our Tokyo-domiciled friends, Nelson and Carol, we enjoyed plate after plate of extraordinarily fresh, beautifully presented (is there any other way in Japan?) and delicious sushi and sashimi especially the melt-in-the-mouth blue fin tuna sushi, unagi, sashimi salad, deep fried squid and salmon rolls.

But there's more than great food. This unpretentious, often manic, open all-hours eatery is the Cheers Bar as a sushi joint with chefs and waiters welcoming guests and calling out specials in their own inimitable way. It never gets quiet, with customers coming and going all night, and the wait staff are friendly and funny.

Address: 2-1-3 Yuraku-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Closest train station: Yurakucho
Website

Gravitating to Graviton

2011-02-26T01:12:00.000-08:00

Khun Art - he'll see you right for you alternative listening pleasure

In days of yore, you could tell a lot about a person by their record or CD collection. Would you rather invest quality time with someone who listens to James Blunt or James Brown? A no-brainer - I miss those simple and more transparent days.

Under this rating system, the affable Khun Art who manages the Graviton music shop in Jatujak Market may be the coolest chap in South East Asia - he doesn't have his finger on the new music pulse - he is the pulse.

His little shop is a gold mine of good taste and he has the latest and greatest new releases in many of the music genres and sub-genres that matter - electro, house, roots, dubstep, techno, rock, indie, punk, pop, soul, many soundtracks and more.. loads more.

If you are after an Artic Monkey's DVD or an XX t-shirt Art is your man as well. He has a great selection of music DVDs and t-shirts and bags. T-shirts and bags

I've been a Graviton regular for more than three years and from my experience, no other store in the region comes close in terms of diversity, good taste and speed to market.

Address: Section 3, Soi 1, #91 Jatujak Market (note Jatujak Market is only open on the weekends).
e-mail: jackazz99@hotmail.com

Jimbooo.... Jimbo, Jimbo, Jimbo... Jimbooo... Jimbo, Jimbo, Jimbo

2011-02-25T07:51:00.000-08:00

I used to eat, sleep, breath and dream football (soccer, futbol, footbon) but like all passionate relationships it was unsustainable and the flame barely flickers now.

Playing football is still great fun as is watching the odd live match. But televised games and the baggage (bags of money, lots and lots of bags) that comes with it, has left me mostly cold. I do however, look forward to, and love, two 45-minute halves of football chat every week thanks to the Guardian newspaper's Football Weekly (Tuesday) and Football Weekly Extra (Friday) podcasts. If you are football crazy you'll probably already know about these podcasts.

Hosted by James Richardson, the podcast is consistently brilliant and hilarious, especially shows involving Barry Glendenning and Sid Lowe - possibly the funniest and smartest pundits on planet football. If they are not discussing the Premiership, La Liga or international games, they'll be chatting about house prices, skiing, the pugilistic skills of the various members of the Pogues, Russian prostitutes at the beach, films, mugs, politicians, current affairs, football chants and much more.

Highly, highly recommended - Football Weekly

Dalat Brasserie

2011-02-24T08:10:00.000-08:00

Although Thailand has never been colonised in a political sense, things may be changing on the culinary front with Japanese and Italian restaurants becoming as ubiquitous as 7-11 stores in the capital.

Diversity is much welcomed so thank goodness for the recent opening of Dalat Brasserie, a new Vietnamese restaurant in Soi Lang Suan. We are huge Vietnamese food fans - following a recent visit to Hanoi - and Dalat Brasserie rekindled memories of some of the amazing meals (thanks Illiana and Bimo) we enjoyed there.

Dalat Brasserie does the simple things very well in terms of service, decor and the cuisine offered. There's plenty to choose from and our personal favourites, Banh Xeo (Vietnamese pancake), Banh Cuon (rice flour crepes), Com Suon (grilled pork marinated in lemongrass and fish suace), Bo La Lot (minced beef wrapped in grape leaves), Pho (beef noodle soup), Goi Bap Chuoi Chay (Banana Flower Salad) and Chao Thom (grilled prawn cake) were tasty, well cooked and delicious.

They must have been because every dish passed muster with my mother-in-law who has an encyclopedic knowledge of South East Asian cuisine and a great palate.

All-in-all, Dalat Brasserie offers super food at affordable prices in a relaxed and comfortable central city setting. We'll definitely be back and look forward to working through the vast menu.

Dalat Brasserie - (opposite Starbucks on Soi Lang Suan)

Blues Sunday

2011-02-21T20:11:00.000-08:00

Even though it's one of the pillars of rock'n'roll, blues music and me have never been good mates, the recorded stuff anyways. To me, it has always made more sense in a live environment and that was the case on Sunday night.

My pals, Chu and Phil and I visited Fat Gut'z, a stylish juke joint in Thonglor, to enjoy a quiet ale and some quality music. The upbeat three-piece band playing did not disappoint - in fact, they were terrific especially when they sang in Thai.

I think the blues and the Thai language were made for each other. If you don't believe me, make a visit to Fat Gut'z which, with its under-the-stairwell stage, provides an intimate "live in the living room" listening experience.

Loosely themed around a chip shop (a very posh chip shop it must be said), Fat Gut'z is renowned - surprise, surprise - for its fish and chips, salt and pepper squid and rock oysters. We didn't eat but the food ordered by others looked pretty tasty. Special mention to the bar staff as well who were attentive and friendly and nearly as happy as the bass player in the band.

More information: Fat Gutz

Steel Drums - they say so much

2011-02-19T19:39:00.000-08:00

Happy Sunday.....

Touch Me - Jamie XX & Yasmine
Far Nearer - Jamie XX

Cover Stars pt 1 - The Kills

2011-02-19T02:30:00.000-08:00

I love cover versions of well-known and not so well-known songs. Just stumbled across this un-varnished and hung over take of the Velvet Underground's Pale Blue Eyes by The Kills. The mid-song guitar workout is terrific - a perfect morning after track.

Enjoy - Pale Blue Eyes - The Kills

Surviving (And Enjoying) Bangkok

2011-02-18T06:32:00.000-08:00

We’re frequently asked for travel tips and advice in Bangkok and Thailand - here are some of the most important ones.

1) Best months to visit? October to January – the cool’ish season when temperatures average between 26–32 degrees. Besides hot season (March to May), the other months are also fine. Rainy season runs from June to November - it doesn’t rain all day just a couple of hours every day.

2) Don’t try to cross major roads - especially via a zebra crossing – cars do not stop at zebra crossings!!! Always use the over bridge or traffic lights. If there are none – wait for a local to cross and follow closely.

3) It never gets cold in Bangkok so leave woolens and thermals at home.

4) Unless the first price is right for your wallet, bargaining is highly recommended at markets. But remember, storekeepers are much smarter and experienced than you, so don’t be a wiseass or bully. Yelling will not result in a lower price. Rule of thumb – the best starting price is 30-35% below the vendor’s initial asking price.

5) Take it easy and stay hydrated. If you’re a 5th gear type of person, drop it down a couple of gears to conserve energy. The heat and humidity takes its toll on everyone.

6) Quite a few attractions offer one price for locals and a more expensive one for tourists. This upsets some but consider this… many travellers from the west earn 2-4 times more than local people.

7) All restaurants and hawker stalls provide four condiments (sugar, chilli, vinegar and fish sauce) to add to rice and noodle dishes. You are under no obligation to use them all – just add according to personal taste.

8) Common sense, common sense and common sense - many travellers take on different personas in the Kingdom. Some think they are Valentino Rossi and rent, and ride scooters and motorbikes, sans a helmet - Thai drivers and roads can be as dangerous as the ones in your home country.

9) Some men also transform into Brad Pitt and believe themselves to be irresistible to many women – depending on which bar you are at - ‘all that glitters is not gold’ can apply as does 'caveat emptor.'

10) Tuk Tuks for short distance journeys only and always agree a price before you jump in. And say no to all offers of visits to tailors, gem shops, seafood restaurants, massage parlours and temples.

11) Small notes are big notes especially if you plan to use taxis to get about. Besides asking a cab driver to change radio station, nothing upsets them more than pulling out a 500 or 1,0000 baht note to pay for the fare. So keep a chunk of coins and 20, 50 and 100 baht notes on you at all times. This advice also applies in Singapore.

12) There’s more to Thai cuisine than pad thai, green curry, tom yum soup and banana pancakes so don’t be afraid to broaden your culinary horizons. If you see an amazing dish on another table don’t be shy to ask what it is and order. Equally important - ‘phet’ (pet) = spicy, 'phet mak mak' = very spicy and ‘mai phet’ = not spicy.

13) While you don’t need to return a wai to everyone - it is a nice gesture, especially to seniors.

14) Where possible, use the Sky Train, subway or water taxis to get around Bangkok. Motorbike taxis for emergencies only or super short trips.

15) Jatujak Market is an impenetrable maze for first timers. So if you see something that appeals make the purchase because it's unlikely you'll be able to find the stall again.

16) Beer and ice. Seems strange and is a no-no in many countries. In the tropics however, it makes a lot of sense where an ice cold beer can warm up pretty rapidly without an ice cube or two.

17) Thailand comes to a standstill twice a day - at 8 am and 6 pm - when the national anthem is played so be prepared to stand and pay respect wherever you are. The King's anthem is also played before all film screenings so same rules apply.

18) Sorry pedants. Thai city and suburb names translated into English can often be spelt in two or three ways - e.g. Thong Lor, Thonglo or Thonglor or Jatujak Market or Chaturchak Market. So don't panic if you think you think you have missed a station or gone to the wrong place because of spelling inconsistencies - you have to back your phonetic intuition.

Click here for part two of our Surviving (and enjoying) Bangkok tips.

"If you can't take the heat ... get out"

2011-02-17T06:57:00.000-08:00

One of my most eagerly anticipated films of the year. The story of the meanest, coolest, and deadliest cricket team ever - the West Indies from the 70s and 80s - with an appearance by Bunny Wailer and a rocking roots, rock, reggae soundtrack - It'd be wrong to ask for more.

WTF

2011-02-16T06:13:00.000-08:00

From hi-so to go-go bars across Bangkok, the music mix is invariably "same same" - soulless R&B blended with bubblegum hip hop. If a 'rebellious jukebox' is more your thing - where dub and dub step, the Stone Roses and Sly and the Family Stone feature on the playlist - make WTF your watering hole of choice.

This hip tavern offers a great selection of cocktails, beers and wine. Adding to its art school vibe is an upstairs gallery and art pieces displayed throughout the 3-leveled shophouse. While the food list could be super-sized that's a small quibble. If music is your food of life, you'll be well satisfied and sated - this is a top shelf bar.

Visit WTF Bangkok for more information ... and don't be put off by its dark alley location

Happy New Year

2011-02-15T23:15:00.000-08:00

As I am in the unique position of being able to celebrate New Year three times (Dec 31/Jan 1, Lunar New Year and Songkran - Thai New Year coming up in April), I am posting this amazing version of Auld Lang Syne today. Whether it's late, right on time or too early for you, enjoy the warm, woozy and wonderful production and Lord Huron's great delivery.

Happy NY, Gong Xi Fa Cai and Sawasdee Pi Mai.

Probably the Greatest Love Song Ever...

2011-02-14T05:31:00.000-08:00

I didn't intend to post my first ever blog post on Feb 14 but Happy V Day wherever you are!